Lindsay T Sews

Tips: Sewing Your First Leather Garment

2011-10-19T14:00:00.000-04:00

I was excited today to see photos of Evan Rachel Wood wearing a leather dress with what looks like black knit for the back of the dress. I love it when I'm accidentally on trend! [Photo Credit: PacificCoastNews]

I am so glad you liked my leather top. I wore it to work this week and got a lot of "ooh, leather!" envious comments from colleagues. Many of you said you now want to try your hands at sewing your own leather garments, to which I say, Go For It! I'm certainly no expert at sewing leather, and I owe a lot to the out-of-print book Sewing with Leather & Suede, but here are a few tips that will help you construct a basic garment:

Make a muslin first of your pattern, and don't skimp on the fitting details. Get it to the point where you'd get an A on it if you were taking a class on fit.
If possible, take your muslin with you to the leather store so you can lay your pieces out on the skin. Skins vary in size, and you can save several dollars by buying just the right size skin for your needs. If you're shopping by phone (click here for NYC leather dealers), provide as much detail as possible about project and size needs. I am a pattern size 14 and I used one lambskin—a small skin for this top and a larger skin for the black sleeveless top—for each project.
Use very sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to cut out your pattern. Use weights to hold your muslin in place as you cut.
Tools you'll need: regular needles for lightweight skins like lambskin, and possibly a teflon foot. If you can find a teflon foot easily, go ahead and get it because you'll probably use it for other things beyond leather. And you need a rubber mallet to pound seams open. (I had so much fun pounding! It was like being back in kindergarten. Pounding does make my dogs bark, though.)
Practice on scraps first. Most leather dealers have scraps you can buy for a couple of bucks.
Only sew with leather when you are as fresh as a daisy and using all your smarts. Mistakes in leather can be fatal because needle holes show. Set your machine speed to turtle, and think, think, think every step of the way. You can take in leather seams but you can't let them out.
Use binder clips or hair clips to hold leather pieces together as you sew seams. Pin holes will show.
You can treat leather much as you would regular fabric. It can be pressed with an iron and you can fuse interfacing to it. You can underline it, as I did with a leather tote bag I made recently. Just test pressing and fusing first on a scrap before you touch your garment; always use a press cloth.

Raquel Allegra leather shirt, $622 at Barney's. Image from New York.

Leather tops and dresses are super-hot right now, so don't delay making your own leather garment. New York Magazine has a four-page spread on leather tops in this week's issue, in fact. And to think you can make your own leather top for a fraction of those designer prices! Right now I'm making a leather mini skirt for Annie's birthday; it's from a caramel-colored lambskin that I'm accenting with brown leather piping around the waist. (I needed two small skins for her skirt.)

Hope these tips help, and happy sewing!

Finished: Black Leather Top Great For Layering

2011-10-12T06:30:00.000-04:00

The inspiration: This page in the August issue of InStyle magazine, where it touted the versatility of a simple leather shell. (I don't know about you, but I find InStyle to be the best magazine for sewing inspiration. It takes more of a real woman-approach than the other fashion mags do.)

The pattern: This hideously ugly 1999 Simplicity pattern bought on Etsy. I used top B as a starting point, adding a center vertical seam and raising the neckline area.

My interpretation:

Darn black for being such a hard color to photograph.

Fabric: One large black leather skin from Leather, Suede, Skins on W. 35th Street here in NYC ($40). One yard of black wool doubleknit from Mood Fabrics ($20). One yard of black poly lycra lining, also from Mood ($5). Total cost to make this top, excluding pattern, and the 7" zipper was from my stash: $65.

Not only did constructing the back out of wool doubleknit save me money, it also gives this top a slim, figure-hugging fit. I lined the top half of the bodice with a poly lycra lining fabric.

This isn't my favorite cardigan, but it gives you an idea of the layering possibilities. This top also looks great worn over a shirt or turtleneck.

Bottom line: I think this is my most favorite piece I've ever sewn. I feel stylish and sexy in it. "Mom, you look hot," said my 16-year-old son approvingly when I showed it off to him and DH, who also heartily approves. I love that it goes with so many things I own. I actually want it to get a little colder here so I can wear it!

Leather is easy to sew, dear readers! I put off sewing leather for years because I thought I needed a lot of new tools and that my machine couldn't handle it. Not so at all. I have a teflon foot now but leather feeds well with my regular foot, and I use regular sewing machine needles too. Leather for apparel (generally lambskin) behaves so much nicer than many fabrics—it doesn't curl or fray or stretch. If you only use one skin for a front of a bodice or for accent pieces, you can keep your production costs within reason. Just make a muslin first and get it to the point where it's perfect, because the holes your sewing machine needle makes do not come out and will show.

Happy sewing!

Finished: Wool Drape Jacket

2011-10-05T06:30:00.000-04:00

The inspiration:

Vince Wool Drape Coat, available at Saks

Etro Wool Coat with Leather Trim, available at mytheresa.com

The pattern:

Vogue 8696

My finished drape jacket:

Fabric: A very lightweight boiled wool with a little bit of stretch to it, from Mood Fabrics here in NYC. Feels like a sweater to wear, not at all heavy like you think boiled wool tends to be. This fabric was so easy to sew, as there is no wrong side and stitches just disappear into it. I did flat-felled seams.

Changes to the pattern: I cut A LOT away from the front of this jacket, plus I rounded the square collar into a wide portrait collar. The original way did not look bad, but it was just too much fabric around the upper body. This pattern runs big, by the way. I also took about three inches off the length. But it's really easy to sew, which is good because I'm making one just like this for my sister.

I really wanted to add fringe to this jacket, like the Etro one, but it just did not work. Too much of a good thing.

Coming up next: A black leather shell that makes a great layering piece. Happy sewing, dear readers!

The Power of a Really Great Handbag

2011-09-30T06:30:00.000-04:00

Fendi Chameleon Duffle Satchel, $2,490, available at Saks.*

Okay, so here's my fall/winter wardrobe plan: Shop my closet and invest in a fabulous handbag.

I've never been one to over-think my handbag purchases. As long as it didn't look cheap and met my stuff-hauling needs, I wasn't too picky about one bag over the other. Then last spring, on a whim, I spent a little more on a designer handbag than I usually do. Okay, a lot more.

But dear readers, this bag was noticed. Well-dressed strangers complimented me on my bag. I could be wearing jeans and a t-shirt and this handbag made me look like I had a summer home in the Hamptons. Store clerks were more eager to be at my service. My daughter Annie emailed me photos of celebrities with the same bag, writing "Look Mom, you're as cool as [famous fashionable persons]."

Considering I wore this same bag every day for over six months, I definitely got my money's worth out of it, and I'll probably pull it out of the closet again this spring. I love that bag and the way it made me feel.

What about you, dear readers? Has a handbag you owned ever made you feel like you just stepped into a higher income bracket? Or are you more of a shoe or jewelry person? Do tell...

*I did not spend anywhere near this amount for my handbag. C'mon, I have a kid in college!

Finished: Leather & Knit Pullover Top in Neutrals

2011-09-20T06:30:00.000-04:00

Simplicity 2192, color-blocked in neutrals with a leather front panel.

Here's my second iteration of the Cynthia Rowley pullover top pattern. (Thank you all so much for your compliments on my Dries van Noten version!) This one is made of three different materials: light tan lambskin leather for the front bodice panel (from Leather, Suede, Skins on W. 35th), matching light tan wool jersey for back bodice panel, and a lightweight beige wool jersey for the sleeves (both wool jerseys from Mood).

I have a chunky turquoise necklace that goes perfectly with this top and adds a pop pf color.

This was my first venture into sewing leather, and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is. I used a regular sewing machine needle and thread, and my machine took to it like it was plain old cotton. No lining needed, just added the pattern's neck facing made out of the light beige wool jersey. The top is very soft and sweater-like to wear, which I hope to do once it gets a little cooler here in the NYC area.

Using leather for only a portion of a garment is a good way to keep your costs low. You have to buy leather by the entire skin, and skins run about $30-$35 apiece, depending on size and skin type. I took my muslin with me to the leather store to make sure I could cut the front bodice from just one skin. Here's how J. Crew combined a little bit of leather and wool jersey to stylish effect.

The back panel is from a wool jersey that's really close in color to the leather front panel. There is some slight dimpling in the upper armscye which I may resolve with a thin sleevehead, but I'll wear this first and see how it moves before I do anything different.

Apologies for the crummy mirror shot. My regular photographer had the nerve to leave me for her sophomore year of college and my back-up photographer (my 16-year-old son) is more of a clown than a photographer. But this is what the top looks like on me.

Want to know one good thing I've found about getting older? I finally can wear neutral colors. I've always thought wearing neutrals made a woman look so chic, but whenever I wore ivory or tan or beige, people would ask me if I was feeling ill. Seriously. Now my skin tone is lighter, as is my hair color (thanks to my colorist), and I'm wearing neutrals like crazy to make up for all the lost years.

Next up: Failure on tap. A shirt I had really high hopes for collapses and dies near the finish line. I'll analyze where I went wrong and you, dear readers, can weigh in with your opinions. Happy sewing!

Finished: Dries van Noten-Inspired Silk Top

2011-09-13T06:30:00.000-04:00

Dries van Noten silk top, available at mytheresa.

My first entry into fall 2011 sewing to share with you...

Inspiration: This Dries van Noten silk top that combines two prints with great success. Silk prints abound in NYC's Garment District, and I was able to find two compatible charmeuse prints, very reasonably priced, at Chic Fabrics on W. 39th Street.

Pattern used: Simplicity 2192, a Cynthia Rowley pullover top that's a perfect match for the DVN designer original. This pattern runs big, which I found when I made a quick muslin. I cut a size smaller and I nipped in the side seams and the sleeve seams, to make it less boxy.

My version

Here is the result, in black, brown and taupe. Small print on the bodice, large print on the sleeves just like the original. You'll notice my bodice is shorter than the Dries van Noten version. Originally mine was that long too, but I found shortening the bodice looked sleeker on me. I'm wearing this top today as I write this and I really like it a lot. It came together quickly and makes a sophisticated addition to my fall wardrobe.

In fact, I liked this top so much I immediately made another version of it, this time in leather and wool jersey. Yeah, I tried sewing with leather for the first time and it was surprisingly easy. I'll share more about that next week. Happy sewing until then!

Close-up of the two prints used

How to Sew an Exposed Zipper

2011-06-22T12:30:00.002-04:00

RACHEL Rachel Roy dress with an exposed back zipper, available at Macy's.

Trust me when I say that sewing an exposed zipper is not much more complicated than installing an invisible zipper. And since the exposed zipper trend shows no signs of dying down, now's the time to try one on a top or dress. Here are the simple steps:

1. Purchase a separating zipper with metal teeth in the appropriate length for your dress or top. Using a wire cutter, snip the zipper tape just above the metal zipper stop. (Note: You can leave the metal stop in place if you don't think it will feel uncomfortable to wear. I opted to take it off.)

2. Make your own stop by taking several stitches across the teeth (just like you’d do if you were shortening an invisible zipper). This will keep the zipper from separating.

3. Cover the end of the zipper so your new stitched stop does not show. I used a piece of ribbon for my dress, but you could also use self-fabric. Just fold it around the zipper ends and stitch in place. (You may find it easier to attach this cover-up after you stitch the zipper in place; that’s what I did.) See photo A below.

4. You will be sewing your zipper in place before you attach the neck facing or lining. First, stitch the seam below the zipper. Next, either loosely hand-baste the part of the seam where the zipper will be placed, or just press it open. Do not machine baste the zipper seam as you'll just have to remove these stitches to set in your zipper.

5. Press the zipper seam open. Working from the right side, lay your zipper in place and pin it or use basting glue. Don't go crazy pinning or gluing here; this step is only to get the placement down for your zipper. Make sure the zipper starts right at the top of your garment.

6. Now, working from the inside (wrong side) of your garment, separate the seam so the zipper teeth are exposed from the wrong side—you want to be able to see the zipper teeth. Hand-baste the zipper in place from the wrong side. See photo B.

7. Check that you can easily open and close your zipper without any fabric getting caught. And make sure all intersecting seams match, like bodice to skirt, for example.

8. Machine-stitch your zipper in place from the right side using a thread that matches the zipper. Topstitching thread would be nice but not necessary. Stitch two rows on each side of the zipper: the first row should be about 3-4cm from the teeth; the second row should fall at the outside edge of the zipper tape. (Photo C.)

9. Remove any basting stitches and you’re done! If your top or dress is lined, fell-stitch the lining in place so it covers the zipper stitching (see photo B below). If you aren't using a lining you could probably pretty-up the underside of the zipper with ribbon or bias tape, or leave it as is, like I did with the skirt portion of my dress.

Photo A: In this type of exposed zipper, the teeth and tape are sewn on top of the garment. In another type of exposed zipper only the zipper teeth are exposed. You can see in this photo how I covered the ends of the zipper tape with ribbon.

Photo B: Here you can see what the zipper looks like from the wrong side. The bodice lining hides the zipper stitching, though for the skirt I opted to not finish the seam and leave the stitching exposed. (I could get away with that since the skirt of my dress is a doubleknit.)

Photo C: The exposed zipper can open right at the top of a garment. Some RTW clothes include a hook-and-eye with an exposed zipper, some don't.

Finished: First Lady Colorblocked Day Dress

2011-06-15T06:30:00.001-04:00

Just a quick post to show you a dress I just finished. It's out-of-print McCalls 5975, made out navy doubleknit (from my stash; can't remember where I bought it) and medium-weight cotton stripe jersey from Mood. Hits mid-knee, slim-fitting and is very flattering to wear. I may wear it to our annual Father's Day buffet on Sunday, and if I do I'll post some photos.

My inspiration for this dress:

Michelle Obama in colorblocked dresses. (AP images)

This Michael Kors Colorblock Shift Dress

This Milly Belted Deni Dress

I took a separating zipper and made it into an exposed zipper. You may be able to see in this photo how I used a bit of navy grosgrain ribbon to finish off the exposed zipper tapes at the bottom of the zipper.

Other sewing details:

I lined the bodice with a lightweight navy poly jersey. The pattern calls for facings at the neck and armscyes.
The most time-consuming part of construction was matching the stripes at the seams. I basted the seams first then slowly stitched.
Everything else was pretty straightforward.

I like this dress a lot, but would like it even more if I had Michelle Obama's slim arms and legs!

Five Stars for Threads Sewing Guide Book

2011-06-11T18:42:00.001-04:00

You know how much I like this book? I'd pay full price for it, that's how much. (I work indirectly with the publishing industry and am fortunate to get many books for free or at a low employee discount. It's a great perk.) Editors Carol Fresia, Judith Neukam and probably many others at Threads magazine did an excellent job of creating a guide that serves both beginners and experts equally well.

Honestly, I was expecting this book to be a big disappointment. For one, the cover looks more like crafts sewing than fashion sewing to me. And I worried that Taunton Press might treat it like they often do with issues of Sew Stylish--recycle bits and pieces of Threads articles and photos and put it on the newsstand. But while I do recognize many photos in the book from past Threads, the book feels fresh and current and like an intense amount of work and consideration went into designing a book that would satisfy all levels of sewers. I especially love the helpful diagrams interspersed throughout the book.

If you'd like a look inside Threads Sewing Guide, click here and then click on the link that says "Sneak Peak." Bottom line: I'd say this book is an absolute must for your sewing library. It has the potential to become one of those books, like Reader's Digest Complete Sewing Guide and the Vogue sewing books, that we consider a trusted and knowledgeable old friend.

Finished: Garden Party Dress for Elizabeth

2011-06-07T06:31:00.004-04:00

My niece modeling the "garden party" dress I just made for her. She is a big fan of halter dresses in the summer.

I've got a sewing assignment for you, dear readers. Take a break from sewing big girl clothes and make something for a younger one in your life. Sewing in a smaller scale and working with fabrics and trims you might not sew for yourself stretches your creativity in new ways, you'll see. Kind of like quilting does. Once or twice a year I like to make a dress for my niece Elizabeth, 6, just to give the girly side of my sewing brain a workout.

This year I made a Children's Corner pattern for her, "Renee," version B at left. It's a backless halter dress, perfect for a muggy New York summer.

Fabrics used: White cotton piqué from my stash for the bodice, and a piqué print from H&M Fabrics on W. 39th Street in the Garment District. Pink petersham ribbon from Pacific Trimming used as a sash; white rick-rack trim on the bodice edges.

Annie wanted me to have this monogrammed for Elizabeth, and I have to agree a pink monogram on the bodice would have looked nice. But I was in a let's-get-this-finished mode and didn't want to take the time. Next year I'll make Elizabeth a monogrammed dress.

I like all the different textures at play in this dress.

The halter-back neck closure and a better view of the rick-rack edging.

A word of advice: While Children's Corner patterns feature some of the prettiest and most classic kids' patterns out there, don't tackle one unless you are an experienced sewer. The directions assume knowledge of sewing construction and seams are generally only 1/4"—great if you know what you're doing but hellacious to work with if you make mistakes and need to rip and redo.

Bottom line: I mean seriously, isn't this dress the cutest thing? Got any little girl dresses in your sewing plans?

Finished: Isabel Marant-Inspired Silk Pants

2011-06-01T17:00:00.002-04:00

My inspiration came from this layout in a recent InStyle magazine featuring a pair of Isabel Marant silk trousers worn three different ways. I love the idea of an easy pair of lightweight pants for summer, and this elastic-waist pant by French designer Isabel Marant, known for her "insouciant elegance" (Net-a-Porter), caught my eye in a big way.

On Net-a-Porter, I found the Isabel Marant pants for sale in crimson (left). Coincidentally, I had 2.5 yards of crimson 4-ply silk just sitting there in my stash (bought about three years ago when Fabric.com or Fabricmart had a sale on 4-ply silk and the whole sewing community grabbed it up).

The pattern: This McCalls pattern (5889) features an elastic-waist pant with a tapered leg (view D) and is perfect for a starting point to knock off the Marant pants. I added about 2.5 inches at the top to mimic the ruffle at the waist, and I reduced the width of the pants through the waist and the thigh. I have ~~wide~~ athletic calves so I didn't alter this part of the pants, but others may need to narrow the pant leg here too. The pattern inseam is 32", which, on me, allows for the required puddling around the ankle (I'm 5'7").

Once I got the fit down these pants went together in an evening. I made two pairs: one out of the 4-ply crimson silk, and one out of a poly charmeuse print I found at Chic Fabrics in the Garment District. For the crimson pants I added a black cord drawstring; with the print pants I just did a regular elastic waistband.

(Apologies for the photo quality. My photographer is a co-worker who is gracious with her time, so I feel guilty about asking her to retake the photos when they aren't sharp.)

Technically these is my muslin version. I see from the photo this pair looks a little MC Hammer-esque; I may still take the thighs in a little.

If I were to make these again I might consider slimming them a tad more in the thigh area, but I'm keeping in mind these aren't supposed to be close-fitting. Two things I recommend to those wanting to make similar trousers: One, make a muslin first out of a cheap poly fabric and really work out the fit before you cut into your fashion fabric. For most people this pattern is going to be too balloon-y. Two, if you want to roll up the cuffs as shown in the InStyle layout, make sure you finish the inside of your pants so the seams look decent when they are exposed.

Bottom line: Super-easy to make once you tackle the fit part, and a nice alternative to jeans in the summer. They work well with both flats and heels.

Finished: The Perfect Long Skirt, Super Easy to Make

2011-05-10T06:30:00.002-04:00

I'm so happy long skirts are back in again. I created my own version of Simplicity 2366 and I'm so pleased with it I promptly made a second version. Now I have two long skirts to swish around in this summer: yay!

You'll have to trust me on how quick-to-sew, easy and stylish my version of this pattern is, since the photos I show here don't do it justice. It's slim through the waist and hips, and then it gradually widens to a flared hem. (So many long skirts envelope you in just too much fabric, and I did the peasant girl look to excess in my youth.) Here's how to make a more flattering version of 2366, view A:

Step 1: Determine desired finished skirt length and add length to pattern as necessary. For example, I wanted this skirt to fall at the top of my ankles, so I added three inches at the narrow hem. (I'm 5'7".)

Step 2: Omit the waist yoke piece and cut skirt from a lightweight fabric with good draping properties. Sew the skirt panels together. I suggest you baste first, then try on for fit. You want to the skirt to just ease over the widest part of your hips without a lot of loose fabric. Adjust as necessary and stitch.

Step 3: Add an elastic waistband casing, using the instructions from Threads #154 April/May 2011 for a "Barely There Elastic" (p. 58). If you don't have this issue, all you are doing is adding an attached casing band for your elastic. Although you are omitting the waist yoke, the top of the elastic waistband will fall only about an inch below your waist.

Step 4: Let your almost-finished skirt hang 24 hours, then stitch a narrow hem. That's it!

This skirt version is made from a drapey rayon I bought for $4 a yard in Paron's Annex. It has perfect swishability and the neutral color means it goes with a ton of things I already own.

Here you can see how I added a separate casing for the elastic out of some black charmeuse I had in my stash.

This is the second version I made, from a denim-ish light cotton from A.K. Fabrics. The casing is 2"-wide navy petersham ribbon.

Finished: Retro '70s Shift Dress

2011-04-28T12:30:00.001-04:00

Daughter Annie modeling the shift dress I made for her using Simplicity 2584.

Annie says the girls at her college are big on wearing dresses once the weather turns nice. So when she was home for this past Easter weekend I whipped up this little shift dress for her, using that same Cynthia Rowley pattern I keep turning to for her and me.

Isn't this a great print? It reminds me of the sundresses I wore when I was a teenager in Palos Verdes Estates, CA, and New Orleans in the seventies. The brown and orange flowers in it definitely give this print a retro vibe. I got the fabric at Prime Fabrics on W. 35th Street, and I did a lot of playing around with placement of the large flowers before I cut the pattern out. By this I mean it's no accident that big pink rose is near the waist—placement of it here helps create some waist definition in a dress that's basically a rectangle.

I did a bodice-only lining in orange cotton for a fun contrast.

Other details: Added vertical back darts at Annie's request to give the dress a slightly closer fit…Added teeny trim at the neckline for a girly touch…Lined the bodice in orange cotton and hand-stitched right to the edge at the armscyes, so you glimpse a little pop of color on the inside of the dress…Prewashed the heck out of this fabric before I cut the dress out. (College laundry machines are brutal on clothes.)

Bottom line: A fun and easy dress to make, and Annie likes it very much. (She says her friends at college are very envious she has a mom who can make custom outfits for her.)

Must go to bed early tonight so I can get up in the wee hours to watch the Royal Wedding. Keep calm and carry on!

Finished: Dots & Squares Tunic, Ready for Warmer Days

2011-04-26T06:31:00.004-04:00

This tunic for me is now the third thing I've made from Simplicity 2584.

I wore this tunic on Easter and got an unsolicited "I really like that top, Mom" from Annie, who was home from college for the weekend. As I was thinking it looked more like a pajama top than a tunic, I was happy to get this vote of confidence from someone who doesn't dole out compliments lightly. And who would have told me if it looked like a pajama top. (Aren't daughters wonderful that way?!)

Fabric: Gold polka dots on a cream cotton background, from Elliott Berman Textiles, purchased a year ago. The trim is a gold brocade (?) you've seen here and here; I think I have now used up the last of it in my stash.

Pattern Adjustments: I drafted a different exterior facing that didn't have all the curves of the original one. I also took off about a half-inch from the top of the sleeve cap so it would fit smoothly without any gathers.

I used a very thin rope trim from Pacific Trimmings to edge the facing; attached by hand.

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I need a new sewing cabinet! The Sauder cheapie folding cabinet finally fell apart and now I'm looking to replace it. I need something that can expand and contract to suit the small area I sew in, and I've been looking at Arrow, Horn, Perfexion, Roberts and Tracey's Tables. Anyone have any opinions on these brands or other suggestions?

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What I'm working on now: Gosh, my productivity level has been high lately. While Annie was home I made a retro-seventies shift dress for her (photos to come), I finished my rain cape, and I just made the perfect long summer skirt. I'll try my best to get photos up soon!

Update: Irons and Pattern Cataloging

2011-04-13T12:49:00.000-04:00

Last week I asked for your opinions on irons and digitally cataloging my sewing patterns. Thank you so much for your input; you were a big help! I've decided to go with two temporary solutions that are in testing mode:

DG5030 Pressure Iron & Steamer

Irons: Many of you like Reliable irons, and I wish there was a place near me to check them out. I was at Macy's Herald Square, riding one of the store's ancient but quaint wooden escalators down to the basement cafeteria (highly recommend it), when it deposited me right in front of the irons. The Rowenta irons were all on sale, including this one (above). I spent some time playing with it, and I liked how this iron felt light and how the water tank holds 33 ounces and how the footprint was small enough for my limited space. Plus I have a full year to return it if I'm not satisfied. Since I was actually happy with my Rowenta for three out of its four years of use, I decided to give this model a try. I'll let you know if I end up returning it.

A view of some of my 155 patterns on Picasa.

Pattern Cataloging: You all had many suggestions here, including Pattern Pal, Bento, PatternReview and Evernote. Currently I see my digital cataloging needs as very simple. I want to be able to view all my patterns at home and remotely so I stop buying patterns that are similar to ones I already own. Just last week I bought a McCalls pants pattern not realizing I already have a Simplicity pattern just like it. I am (generally) not an impulse fabric buyer, so I don't need to have access to yardages 24/7.

On Sunday I assembled all my patterns, laid a piece of white foamcore on my dining room table, opened the curtains for some nice natural lighting, and took quick shots—filling the frame with the pattern—of each of my patterns against the foamcore. This actually did not take very long, about an hour. I uploaded them to my computer, made low-res copies, then uploaded the low-res files to Picasa. (In the future I can just save pattern images from the web site or Etsy and upload them to Picasa.) I love seeing all my patterns in one glance.

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It feels so good to be in a sewing groove! I finished Annie's sheath dress, a tunic for me, and now I'm working on an easy long-and-flowing skirt for me. The trick to production-line sewing for me is to cut out a pattern or two each weekend, since I'm usually too tired to cut out at night but not too tired to sew for an hour or so. Do you have any production line tips that you find make it easier for you to sew when you want? Share here, please!

Seeking Opinions: Irons and Pattern Cataloging

2011-04-08T09:00:00.003-04:00

I need a new iron. My Rowenta is on its last legs: It leaks, it overheats, it's a mess. I need an iron that can handle my sewing needs but doesn't require a lot of room or had added contraptions. (My present sewing area is small.) Anyone out there happy with their irons?

Edited to add: Anyone know anything about Oliso irons?

I want to find a way to catalog my burgeoning pattern collection. Presently my patterns are stored in several boxes in my garage, making it a pain to look through them, and I want a way to access my collection online. I was thinking I'd take a photo of each and upload them to my computer and to Picasa, but maybe there's a better way out there? Thoughts?

Edited to add: Many of my patterns are OOP or vintage with images no longer available, and it's those that I want to catalog. Just to clarify.

Thanks for your suggestions, and happy sewing this weekend!

Finished: A Beachy Tunic

2011-03-16T06:30:00.017-04:00

Simplicity 2584 by Cynthia Rowley

Here's another way my daughter Annie and I are very different from each other: I'd prefer to spend my summers by a peaceful lake; she rather be sitting on a beach any day. Annie's love of the ocean is completely evident in this tunic she asked me to sew for her. She picked out the cotton print (from Elliott Berman Textiles in NYC) and chose the tunic pattern. It's spring break for her college now and Annie is visiting a friend in Florida, so chances are good this tunic has already been worn.

At any rate, this pattern is two years old and there are plenty of reviews about it already. I liked everything about it and thought the directions were clear enough for an advanced beginner. The only thing I'd recommend watching out for is the ease in the sleeve caps. I thought there was too much, resulting in puffiness rather than a smooth sleeve, so I had to finesse this a bit. Baste first and try on and adjust as necessary before you stitch the sleeve to the bodice.

I made a muslin that Annie tried on when I saw her in Baltimore recently. It fit perfectly with no adjustments needed…the benefit of sewing a boxy tunic.

The placket is made from some cotton piqué I had in my stash, and I trimmed it with narrow black braid from Daytona Braids and Trimmings.

The directions call for an exposed zipper like this, and I thought it was a nice touch. A little edgy, I think. Bought the zipper and had it sized at Pacific Trimming.

I lined, or rather interlined, the main part of her tunic as the cotton was a little sheer. Susan Khalje just wrote a good article on interlining for Threads.

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What I'm working on now: I feel very enthusiastic about spring sewing, but you know how you can get bogged down in one project and then it just drains your enthusiasm? That's how I feel about my Chico's/Oscar de la Renta coat/Asian jacket and why I would love to finish it this weekend. What's everybody else working on?

Finished: Vintage 1959 Jacket

2011-02-27T21:29:00.001-05:00

My vintage jacket, finished at last

I just got back from spending the weekend in Baltimore, where Daughter Annie and I met for some shopping and dining (dinner with Cidell!), and I'm really tired. Please accept my apologies for this slipshod post!

Pattern: A 1959 McCall's pattern that I chose for my participation in the Vintage Sewalong. I had to lengthen it by 1.5 inches (I'm 5'7" and I think it was drafted for a more petite woman.)

Fabric: A poly wool lycra blend I found in the suiting section at Mood Fabrics. It looks contemporary and it has wonderful stretch. The poly lining has lycra in it too.

New tricks I learned with this jacket: Welt or slash pockets; mitered hem and sleeve vents. Both not as hard as you'd think they'd be.

Bottom line: A radical departure from my propensity for no-collar Chanel-style jackets with embellishments. The fit is great, and I plan on wearing it with high-waisted trousers, thankfully back in style. It took me forever to make, but I really like this jacket.

One thing I did not like about this pattern was the collar. It was notched rather than a traditional collar attached to a lapel. So I instead decided to call attention to this detail by adding a petersham ribbon embellishment.

I carried the petersham ribbon touch to the cuff, and I had buttonholes made at Jonathan.

Silver petersham ribbon edges the facing where it joins the lining.

A really bad shot of the back of the jacket. Darts instead of princess seams here work well with this stretchy fabric.

My dog with his toy interrupting the photo shoot. This shot is supposed to show you that I used a contrast lining fabric for the sleeves.

Now Entering the Precision Sewing Phase

2011-01-25T12:30:00.002-05:00

Dritz sewing gauge from Jo-Ann Fabrics

Out of all the sewing tools I own, from my presser/clapper to my professional pattern weights to my dressmaker transfer paper, my sewing gauge is my most valued tool. It's the first thing I always recommend new sewers buy. And if I'm freaking out in my sewing room it's not because I made a big mistake—it's because I can't find my sewing gauges.

When I sewed in my teens and twenties, the only time I used this tool was to measure skirt hems or mark where buttons should go on a placket. In those heady days of speed sewing (gotta have a cute dress to wear to school tomorrow!) I just eyeballed my stitching and said good enough. No wonder only two garments I made during that time are still with me.

These days I'm all about precision sewing. Taking a class taught by Susan Khalje and seeing her stop and measure constantly had a profound effect on me. Here is a woman with thousands of hours of professional sewing under her belt, and if anyone is experienced enough to just eyeball things, it's Susan. Yet she still measured everything.

I posted on Facebook about making my first welt pocket, and a friend wrote that I shouldn't have any problems with this since I was a precision sewer. At first I was really flattered by her remark, and then I realized she's right, that's what I am now—I've finally joined the school of precision sewing. I measure everything, I do a lot of basting, and when I have to, I rip and redo. And I'm a lot prouder of the clothes I make.

What about you, dear readers? Do you consider yourself a precision sewer? Are you in love with your sewing gauge as much as I am?

Finished: Vest for Me, Skirt for Annie

2011-01-07T13:11:00.003-05:00

Vest made using an RTW vest as a pattern.

I don't quite know what to make of this vest. Is it what I was envisioning? Did I get too design-y with it? I feel like I ended up with an après-ski vest you might find in a Gorsuch catalog, not that I'd say this could be called "luxury skiwear." I wore it to work this week with black pants and felt just ok about it. Maybe it will grow on me.

The sewing details:

Pattern was an RTW vest I've always liked. I used the Press 'n Seal method and the fit is perfect. Yay for that.
Fabric is a silver jacquard remnant I got at London Textiles during Spring PR Weekend in Philadelphia.
Seams and edges are trimmed in black 1/4" petersham ribbon.
Lining is black silk charmeuse from my stash

Black jumbo fabric-covered snaps from Pacific Trimming.

Metallic brocade skirt for Annie. Fabric from Paron Fabrics in NYC.

This was a quick-and-easy skirt for Annie. It was a BurdaStyle pattern, but every pattern company has one of these no-waistband skirt patterns which belong in every woman's pattern stash. I used up the last of my black silk charmeuse for the lining. Annie wore it as soon as I finished it and looked really cute in it. The next day, however, she asked if there was any way I could take the waist in a little, and of course I wanted to strangle her because she approved the fit before I did all the finishing stuff. After I harrumphed and lectured her on paying more attention to the fitting process, I told her to just pull the skirt down on her hips and live with it. (It could stand to be a skosh longer in my opinion.) Daughters!

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What I'm sewing now: I am working on the muslin for the spring coat I'm making as part of the Vintage Sewalong (which unfortunately is now closed to new participants). Muslin #1 was almost there but I need to tweak the fit a bit, so I'll work on Muslin #2 this weekend. I am also dying to see a movie, maybe The King's Speech or True Grit. Let's hope the snow stops soon here. Enjoy your weekend, dear readers!

How to Replace a Coat Lining

2011-01-02T07:00:00.002-05:00

Warning: tutorial ahead!

I replaced the thin polyester lining in Annie's J.Crew duffle coat with a much warmer and more attractive lining.

RTW coat linings! Don't even get me started! It seems like even the most expensive coats in the stores have thin, wimpy linings that barely make it through a season without wearing at the seams, let alone provide any warmth. Annie recently bought a new winter coat made of wool; she wore it once and promptly asked if I could put in a lining that would keep the chill out. Fortunately, replacing a coat lining is easy. I thought I'd share my tips for this here:

Sunback linings, also known as Kasha, are heavy satin backed with flannel and make excellent linings where you need some warmth. I used a print Sunback lining I bought at B&J Fabrics in the Garment District for Annie's coat.
Add a layer of flannel for even more warmth. Annie gets cold easily, so I lined the body of her coat with Sunback and flannel, with just one layer of Sunback in the sleeves.
Rip out the lining from your coat and use that as your pattern. Press each section carefully and measure the seam allowances. A little spray starch can stiffen the lining and make it easier to use as a pattern.
Use the existing lining as your pattern pieces.
I only ripped apart half of Annie's original lining and left the other half sewn together. I used the intact half as a sewing guide when I constructed the new lining. If you are cutting the new lining in a double layer you only need one of each piece anyway.
Cut pattern pieces from flannel if using.

Baste the flannel to the Sunback pieces. Stitch sections together, then trim the flannel close to the stitching to eliminate bulk. Press seams open.

Sleeve seams are one of the first places linings tend to rip, so I use a smaller stitch (about 2.2) and I reinforced the armscye seam stitching.
Stay-stitch on the seam allowance all the way around the perimeter of the lining. Press, and clip where necessary. Pin lining to coat.
Using a fell stitch, begin sewing at the center neck and work your way down to the edge of the coat. Do the same on the opposite side. Sew the hem last.
Anchor the sleeve lining to the coat by sewing a few stitches at the bottom of the armhole. Sew the sleeves hems.
Wear and be warm!

This warmer lining looks and feels a gazillion times better than the original lining. Annie really likes it!

Press 'n Seal Your Way to Making Patterns From Your Clothes

2010-12-15T06:30:00.002-05:00

I love this product's versatility: Wrap foods and make patterns from it too!

Ever since sewing blogger Adriana posted about using Glad Press 'n Seal® to make patterns from her clothes, I've been wanting to give it a try. This past weekend I sat down with my Press 'n Seal to turn a favorite RTW vest into a workable pattern. Readers, this technique is so easy you're going to want to toss a box of the plastic wrap in your grocery cart today. Here are the simple steps I used to make a pattern:

Set up your work area: You need a table, strong enough lighting so you can see the details in your RTW garment, Glad Press 'n Seal, and a felt-tip marker.
Identify all the pieces of your garment before you begin tracing. My princess-seamed vest has a center front, side fronts, center back, side backs, and a stand-up collar.
Lay your garment on the table and smooth it out as flat as possible. Then place a sheet of Press 'n Seal on top of the piece you're going to trace first. With your hands, press the plastic film firmly onto your garment so it adheres flat and without forming wrinkles in the plastic.
Take a felt-tip marker and trace along all the seamlines and edges of the piece, like the center front, for example.

Here I traced the vest's center front using a felt-tip marker and Glad Press 'n Seal.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 for each piece of your garment. Obviously if you have duplicate pieces, like the side fronts, you only have to trace one. For my center back piece, which would normally be cut on the fold, I carefully folded my vest's back and traced the folded edge.
Now get out your tracing paper, carbon transfer paper, and your double-wheeled tracing wheel. Lay the plastic wrap pattern pieces you've just drawn on top of your tracing paper (which is on top of your face-up transfer paper) and smooth them flat. Trace along all the seamlines and edges, adding the appropriate amount of seam allowance. For my vest I gave it a one-inch seam allowance.
Cut out each pattern piece and label each; for example, "Vest side front, cut 2." Draw grainlines on each piece, and you've got a complete pattern from your RTW garment.

All the pieces to my vest pattern traced from the plastic wrap onto tracing paper. I labeled each piece and added grainlines.

Depending on what you're making from your plastic wrap pattern, you may want to take the time to make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric. I skipped this step since my new vest will be made out of a similar-type fabric as the original vest. If you'd like more information about how to handle trickier things like darts and sleeves, I recommend you take a look at the book Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit, where the author shares her techniques for copying RTW garments you already own. Items like pencil skirts, t-shirts and vests are good initial projects for this.

As I write this post I've now sewn all the new vest's seams and it fits me just like the RTW vest. As soon as I finish it I'll share photos, hopefully next week. I'm so happy with the results I'm already going through my closet to see which of my RTW clothes I want to knock off next using this technique.

Back soon!

Finished: Silk Tie Blouse

2010-11-22T12:45:00.003-05:00

I call this my Michelle Obama blouse because I can picture her having a basic like this in her closet. Tie blouses are good wardrobe additions because you can wear them on their own or as a girly touch under a sweater or jacket. Right now I'm wearing this blouse with black pants and a black cardigan. Plus the black suede Tory Burch boots I got for my birthday two weeks ago (which are very comfortable unlike other designer shoes I own.)

I'm not going to bore you with too many details about sewing this top, other than that it went together easily. The pattern is vintage 1972 Simplicity 7896, readily available online. I bought a size 16 but could have stuck with my usual size 14 (I'm always afraid of vintage patterns running small).

The fabric is a silk lycra from Elliott Berman Textiles in the Garment District that looks and feels like charmeuse (I used the matte side) but has the stretch of a knit. What a great combination! A girl can always use a little give in her fabrics, right? I treated the fabric like a knit while sewing, using a ballpoint needle, slight zigzag stitch for seams, etc.

Bottom line: A good addition to my wardrobe and a nice change from sewing jackets and coats.

Fabric detail shot. Would you believe I actually did all the buttonholes on my own instead of taking this blouse to Jonathan Embroidery?

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A couple of people have asked me how I do my "flat" shots. It's actually pretty easy. I take two pieces of white foamcore (you could also use a sheet or tablecloth), lay them down at the bottom of my front or back porch steps (outside), and artfully arrange the garment on top of the foamcore. Then I stand on my steps high enough that I can position my camera directly above the garment, filling the shot with just the garment. I shoot either in the early morning or late afternoon when the shadows are minimal. Last, I use Photoshop to erase any visible background. That's it!

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Yay, it's almost time for my second favorite holiday of the year! (July 4th is #1 in my book.) We'll be at my sister's house just ten minutes away from our home. Less travel time equals more time for sewing! Enjoy!

Finished: Floral Wool Trench Coat

2010-11-10T06:44:00.002-05:00

It's nippy out and I want to look good when I'm walking around NYC. That's why I've been on an outerwear kick lately. This wool trench coat is now the third coat I've made and each time making a coat gets easier. Here are the details:

Pattern: McCalls 5060, now out-of-print. I wanted double-breasted and princess seams. Good design and the fit was perfect (size 14, made a muslin first), though I thought the shoulders were a tad broad even for me. I narrowed the shoulder width slightly and that helped.

Fabric: Lightweight black-and-tan floral wool from Elliott Berman Textiles. Eugenia of EB says this is Marc Jacobs fabric. I don't know which is the right or wrong side, but I liked the predominantly black side a little better. Heavy black silk charmeuse from TrueMart Fabrics across from FIT for the lining.

Buttons and belt buckle: From Botani on W. 36th.

My goal: Create a lightweight coat that didn't feel heavy and coat-like, one that I could wear over jackets without adding too much weight and bulk. I like to walk briskly on NYC's streets to get the ol' heart pumping and I don't want to sweat from having too much outerwear on.

Sewing details:

I interlined the coat with silk organza, except with the front panels and the collar. There I block-fused interfacing for extra support. In hindsight I think I should have gone to Quick Fuse & Cut on W. 36th and just had them block-fuse the whole thing before I cut it out. We'll see what I think after wearing it a few more times.
Fusible wiggan was used at the hems to provide definition at the hem folds. BTW, check out The Great Coat Sewalong if you want better information on building a coat.
Of course I went to Jonathan Embroidery to have the keyhole buttonholes made. This coat has six buttons total.
The princess seams are topstitched.
When I make this pattern again, and I probably will, I will move the pockets to the side seams instead of having them in the front princess seams.
I had perfect sleeve insertion karma with this coat. They went in beautifully, the shape of the armscye is nice, and the small shoulder pad and sleeve head offer just the right amount of support. I usually have to fuss when I put my sleeves in, but not this time.
Other than agonizing over how much interlining and structure to give this coat, it was easy to make. I hate sewing notched collars but if you take the time to baste everything first, you'll really improve your success rate.

Bottom line: I like it! Getting many compliments on it. It's nice to wear a coat that isn't a boring solid. Next time I'll make a spring version of this trench in a snazzy brocade or silk taffeta.

A close-up of the fabric. I am a little worried that the threads in the black flowers might snag, but that hasn't happened so far after a couple of wearings. I definitely have a thing for textured fabrics.

I like this touch: I used the other side of the fabric for the undercollar. I thought about making the front facings out of this side too, but that would have been too cutesy.

My Financial Regret? Buying These Chanel Ballet Flats

2010-11-07T00:36:00.004-04:00

The New York Times recently asked readers to describe some "financial decisions, or purchases, that they wish they could reverse." Commenters wrote things like:

"No joke. … I would never have gotten a master’s degree. … What a waste."
"Dumping my best boyfriend, at 27, and graduate school debt. … The split for those two events shows in the lines of my palms, forever."
"Naïve in my 20s, I cashed out $12,000 in retirement savings to pay deposits and move-in fees for a new apartment. Had I left it there, it would have been worth about $200,000 at retirement. Oops!

I have my share of financial regrets too, but my most recent one in the fashion category is buying the Chanel cap-toe ballet flats I had coveted for so long. I treated myself to a pair last Christmas and I think I have worn them,oh, maybe five times since then. Maybe six.

The first time I wore them I took them off to find a tiny slit in the leather, by my left baby toe. No idea how it got there. Have my cheap shoes ever gotten a slit in them? Noooo. When I brought my wounded Chanel to the shoe repair man, he took one look at it and launched into a tirade about how the more expensive the shoes, the worse they are constructed. Then he ranted on in Italian, probably about what an idiot I was and how he has a timeshare in Boca he'd like to sell me.

And can I tell you how uncomfortable these ballet flats are? The toe box is attractively shaped, but only a woman with an abnormally small big toe can wear these shoes without wincing. There is no cushioning in the sole, which may be fine if you glide on lush carpets all day or are in a wheelchair. My office floor is concrete (supposed to look industrial chic) and the streets of Manhattan are concrete; a pair of rubber flip-flops offers your feet more comfort and protection than these shoes do. If you tell me you have Chanel ballet flats and they are the most comfortable shoes you own, I will not believe you. In the least. Maybe if you have artificial legs.

So these shoes sit in my closet, only to be worn for a few hours at a time, and usually to a place or event where alcohol will be served (numbs the pain of wearing the shoes). I am annoyed that I allowed myself to covet something as trivial as a pair of Chanel ballet flats. What is it about shoes, of all things, that ratchets up our desires? Daughter Annie is lusting for a pair of Hunter boots now, emailing me that all the girls on campus are wearing them.

What about you, dear readers? Does a pair of shoes fall on your financial fashion regrets list like it does mine? Maybe it's a handbag? Piece of jewelry? Do tell!

Announcing My Newest Web Site: Shop the Garment District

2010-11-03T14:14:00.000-04:00

Dear Readers:

I've felt for awhile that I was trying to serve two different audiences with Lindsay T Sews: those who are interested in what I sew and my meager life, and those who are interested in my garment district reviews and information, with a small overlap between the two. So I decided to add a new web site that focuses strictly on the garment district—Shop the Garment District—and keep my personal writing here on Lindsay T Sews.

Shop the Garment District is very much in its infancy, and at this point I'm not even sure where I see it heading, other than I'd love for it to bring attention and more shoppers to the endangered garment district. I know I want it to be a return destination and resource for those interested in sewing and crafting (people like us), fashion design students from FIT and Parsons who shop the garment district, and fashion designers and businesses just starting out.

My store reviews will be here, and I'm in the process of updating them now. (For now I will also leave my original garment district writings here on Lindsay T Sews.) This will be the place where I can post news and store promotions and other happening things that I discover or readers tell me about. And I'd love to have other people act as contributors to this site, so it's not just my take on things.

But hey, go check it out now, join my small band of followers (I think I'm up to six now!), and leave me a comment there about what you think. And if I can get a good chunk of hand sewing time in this weekend, I'll be back here next week with photos of my finished black-and-tan floral wool coat. See you then!

New Tools on the Lindsay T Factory Floor Enhance Production

2010-10-26T13:01:00.002-04:00

Point Presser/Clapper

Cloth Weights

5-in-1 Sewing Gauge

Let's talk about three new (to me) notions that make my sewing life easier, since I'm still working on my wool coat and have nothing to show you on that front. The first up is my point presser and clapper. Have you ever sewn a collar or think you will in the future? Been frustrated when you couldn't press open a seam in a tight place or wanted to flatten a bulky join? Then you need to add one of these to your sewing room. Here's a Threads article that tells how to use one and calls it a "must-have sewing tool." I've been using mine religiously to press my collar seams open and to flatten bumpy joins, like where the collar meets the lapel. If professional results are important to you and your sewing, don't wait to buy one.

Next up is my cloth weight. When I bought this a few weeks ago I considered it more of a treat rather than a necessity, because seriously, we all have household items that can act as weights. But this thing is the best! It weighs four pounds, is ten inches long, and keeps my fabric right where I want it when I'm cutting out patterns. Even slippery silk charmeuse behaves with a cloth weight holding it in place. And trust me, a cloth weight is much easier to work with than a bunch of cans.

The 5-in-1 Sewing Gauge by Nancy Zieman is an excellent tool if precision marking is important to you. "Eyeballing" was an acceptable form of measurement when I sewed for speed in my teens and twenties; now I find it horrifying that I could ever sew without measuring and marking precisely at all times. This sewing gauge is great for marking seamlines. Before, I would mark a point with my traditional sewing gauge, mark additional points, then take my chalk or marker and connect the dots. Very time-consuming. With this tool you combine those steps to draw accurate lines in one fell swoop. I only wish Nancy's team had produced this gauge out of a more durable material rather than the flimsy plastic it's made from. I fully expect it to break within twelve months of purchase, but at least I'll get a lot of value from it until then.

Fortunately, you can find all these items online and probably get better deals on them than I did. What about you, dear readers? Do you have any new BFF notions you can't live without these days?

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Daughter Annie Update: Many of you have inquired about how she's doing as a college freshman (oops, they call them "first-years" now). I am very happy to report all is well and she is loving it and adjusting to everything nicely. Annie and her roommate were randomly paired together but they are a good match, and she has bonded with several girls and guys on her floor. Her classes offer just the right amount of challenge, and there is ample opportunity to balance work with play (read "going to fraternity parties").

And, amazingly, my life did not become more empty or lonely as I feared it would with Annie gone. Son David is still at home, and if you are or ever have been the parent of a teenage boy you know how much space they take up. I have trained David and husband Bob to look up from the TV and say nice things if I am modeling something I just made. All is good!

Turning Beginners Into Crazy Sewing Addicts Just Like Us

2010-10-05T06:30:00.004-04:00

I’m mentoring a coworker and beginning sewer who has high hopes for falling in love with sewing. Every time I see my mentee—in the kitchen, the ladies’ room, the elevator—I can’t resist throwing little sewing words of wisdom at her:
-Baste!
-Take it slow!
-Measure precisely!
Sometimes her eyes glaze when I overload her with information, but she’s a good student and I think I can win her over to the Cult of Sewing. This mentoring has me thinking about tips and advice we can pass on to new sewers that will help them hang in there beyond the frustrations and let sewing become the passion that it is for you and me. I posted this query on Facebook recently to my sewing friends; here are some of their words of wisdom for beginning sewers:

Don't get too ambitious when choosing your first project. The goal is get a good enough result that you want to keep sewing and learning. —Phyllis C.
Look past the fugly envelopes and start with Kwik Sew patterns. Great instructions with good techniques, illustrations that make sense, nice sturdy pattern paper. —Leslie L.
Choose projects carefully. Too much ambition can be your worst enemy! —Laura L.
Take a class or several. Even if some of the construction is rudimentary for you, you will still benefit from having a teacher and appropriate beginner projects. —Elizabeth L.
Rudimentary skills are soooo necessary, but perhaps boring to learn. So, get yourself some really cute fabric (like Amy Butler, for example) and just force yourself to make some of those pillowcases, or whatever. Cute fabric will help ease the pain. —Robin D.
Invest in a good pair of shears to cut fabric. And use good thread. —Allyn A. H.
For tension problems or thread breakage, first try rethreading the machine. Then, try changing the needle. Fixes most issues for me. Also, changing needles frequently (every 10 hours) and matching needle type to fabric are critical for success. —Bonnie F. D.
Make a muslin. For a beginner, it saves you from wadders, and makes you practice sewing that one garment twice. Beginners need practice! —Elizabeth L.
Get a simple, basic sewing machine and learn how to properly thread it and basic trouble-shooting (i.e., adjusting thread tension). The machine doesn't have to be brand new or top-of-the-line, but needs to be properly oiled and maintained. —Allyn A. H.
Borrow (if at all possible) or buy a good used machine, rather than buy a new discount store cheapo. And as a good friend, I would clean, oil and generally put that used machine through its paces before turning [the newbie] loose on it. Nothing stifles the love of sewing more than a cranky machine, and some of these new cheap machines don't even make good toys. —Meredith P.
Avoid cheap crappy fabric and cheap crappy supplies. They will only make your sewing look cheap and crappy (and highlight any little mistakes). Better fabric can take more rip-outs if needed. —Pam E.

There are some great videos out there such as the Threads "Learn to Sew", or the Palmer Pletsch series. The new sewer can watch these over and over and they can be found in a lot of libraries. —Melody B.

Enjoy the process —Anne K.
What about you, dear readers? What words of advice would you give a beginning sewer so she doesn't get discouraged by all the little obstacles we've learned to deal with or overcome? Leave me a comment and let us know!

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Thanks for all the compliments on my pea coat! I'm so glad you guys like it. Continuing my jacket phase, I'm just about done with the safari jacket that I began last spring and shelved for the summer. Photos to come. Now hmm, what to make next?...

Finished: BurdaStyle 08/09 Pea Coat

2010-09-28T06:33:00.000-04:00

Pea coats: always a fashion classic.

I think this pea coat could be one of the most satisfying things I've made yet. Here are the details:

The inspiration: I wanted a Burberryesque jacket for fall and spring, something that was timeless.

The pattern: BurdaStyle 08/09, #102. (The link goes to the Russian site; if there's a better archive site please let me know.) A good, basic double-breasted pea coat pattern. I wanted my design to be as basic as possible, so I left off the cuffs, the epaulets and the back pocket.

The fit: I made a muslin first of size 42 and found I didn't need to make any adjustments. The back was a tad boxier than I wanted, so I nipped in the princess seams just so by using my French curve ruler to create a subtle curve.

The outer fabric: You know what a proponent of the garment district I am, but you gotta love an online bargain. I bought this "techno faille" by Vera Wang from FabricMart for $1 a yard last spring. Such a deal! I made Annie's windbreaker from it and now this. A thoroughly delightful fabric to work with. Just wish I had bought more of it.

The lining fabric: Finding the right lining fabric was the hardest part of making this jacket. I wanted a Burberry-style plaid, but the real Burberry plaids are cotton and polyester blends. Do you know how difficult it is to find a cotton/poly plaid that looks classy? One-hundred percent cotton plaids are available but they tend to be either a little heavy in weight (like the one I used in Annie's windbreaker), or they're very light and wrinkle like crazy. (In hindsight, I suppose I could have fused a cotton plaid to avoid wrinkling.) I wanted this jacket to offer some warmth so I went with a 100% wool plaid from Mood Fabrics ($18/yd) that's very soft to the touch. Not my ideal lining solution but I'm happy enough with it. In the photo above, you can see that I omitted the back neck facing (RTW raincoats and jackets don't have this facing).

More sewing details: The fabric was substantial enough that I didn't feel the need to add interfacing or an interlining, or shoulder pads and sleeve heads for that matter. Snoop-shop Burberry Brit's lightest-weight raincoats and jackets and you'll find that they are soft and packable, and that's what I wanted with this jacket.…I relied heavily on my edition of Readers Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing to help me through the tailored notched collar part (let's just hope the new edition that's due out in early November doesn't stint on the tailoring diagrams and instructions).…Finding the right buttons was no easy task. If you follow this blog you know I like to obsess over buttons, and I usually want them to make a statement on the jackets and coats I make. I originally thought silver buttons would look natty, but after sewing them on I realized they were a bit much. Plain navy buttons work much better for this classic look I was going for. And I added another row of buttons to my jacket for six instead of four. Found my buttons at Botani Buttons on W. 36th Street; had keyhole buttonholes made at Jonathan Embroidery on W. 38th.…I edged the front facings in navy petersham ribbon that I folded in half and stitched in place. I like this touch.

Conclusion: Definitely a keeper. If you bump into me in the garment district this fall chances are I'll be wearing this jacket.

So You Think You Want to Write a Sewing Book

2010-09-07T19:00:00.000-04:00

Let's talk sewing books! My very special guest is Anastasia Bosakowski-Chater, editor of Crafter's Choice Book Club. She knows how to pick the sewing and crafts books that appeal to people like you and me.

The sewing blogosphere has been abuzz ever since the news that one of our own scored a book deal. Congratulations to Gertie who will be writing a sewing book for STC Craft/A Melanie Falick Book that’s due to publish in the fall of 2012. I thought this would be a great time to interview my friend Anastasia Bosakowski-Chater, editor of Crafter’s Choice Book Club, the largest craft book club in the United States. Anastasia works directly with the leading craft book publishers to personally select for Crafter’s Choice members the very best of all the craft books published each year. Here’s a bit of my recent conversation with her:

Lindsay T: So who exactly buys craft books these days?

Anastasia: If Crafter’s Choice members are representative of craft book buyers, and I believe they represent at least a large portion of them, then it’s women who are 50-plus years, married empty-nesters or with older children. They buy quilting and sewing books first, followed by crochet books. Jewelry making and knitting books are tied for third place. Their favorite things to sew are handbags, then clothing and what I call “sweet adornments,” fun and cutesy things for your home, like a tea pot cosy.

Lindsay T: The “50+ part and married” sounds like me and many of my readers. Then why do so many of the sewing books published seem like they’re aimed at twenty-somethings?

Anastastia: Just like other industries, publishers are trying to cultivate a younger market. They hope the twenty-somethings who buy their books today will develop lifelong loyalty to their publishing houses. That’s why publishers are going after them.

Lindsay T: That explains why so many of the new sewing books seem to be written by young women who want us to sew A-line skirts with funky leaf appliqués.

Anastasia: I do think the seasoned book-buying audience is being pushed aside in favor of capturing a younger market. You and your readers don’t want to make projects that are too edgy or skirts that are too short. You want to sew things that are timeless and figure-flattering, not weird or funky.

Lindsay T: You’re preaching to the choir, baby! And what’s with all these beginner books? I can’t tell one from the other, because they all have you making the same projects over and over again: tote bag, pillow, pencil case, simple skirt….

Anastasia: The reality is that there is a bigger market for introductory books. Beginner books sell very well, and the projects that bore an experienced sewer like you silly are great for teaching beginners how to sew. Skill-building books are important, and publishers like to refresh these books every few years so what’s out there doesn’t look dated.

Crafter’s Choice members also love quick-and-easy projects books. You know how it is, you may spend hours working on an elaborate project, but then all you want to do next is something really simple. The Perfect Pajama, which features stylish but easy pajama pant projects, was one of our top selling books in the past year.

Lindsay T: That’s so true about simple projects. But does this mean there is no market for serious sewing books?

Anastasia: Not at all. Crafter’s Choice does really well with books that are about more advanced sewing techniques. David Coffin’s Making Trousers for Men and Women was a big club hit, as was The Basics of Corset Building by Linda Sparks. Amy Butler’s Style Stitches is the club’s current bestselling book, and you know how difficult some of the handbag patterns are in that book.

Lindsay T: Ok, good, let’s keep those advanced sewing books coming. So, what are publishers looking for these days when they’re considering adding sewing books to their product line?

Anastasia: In terms of potential authors, publishers are looking at bloggers with lots of followers. Successful bloggers deliver a built-in market that publishers can advertise and sell directly to. They’re looking for authors with projects and a style that will be current even when the book hits the stores a year or two in the future. Projects featured should be more on the introductory side, with a few harder ones thrown in, and they shouldn’t be projects you can make just as easily with a pattern from Simplicity. Or, if you have some new and exciting technique that’s going to revolutionize sewing, publishers will definitely be interested in you too.

Lindsay T: Thanks, Anastasia, this chat has been so interesting. Before I let you go, are there any new sewing books on the horizon you think my readers might be interested in? And what about you, do you have a favorite craft book of the moment?

Anastasia: Definitely! Nancy’s Favorite Notions by Nancy Zieman comes out October 1; in it she explains in her straightforward way how to use all the tools out there to make your sewing easier. Then on November 1 comes a completely revised and updated edition of Reader’s Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing, with all new photos, diagrams and even pull-out patterns. Everybody loves this reference, from beginners to advanced sewers.

As far as my personal favorite new craft book, I just love, and I mean love, Fa La La La Felt by Amanda Carestio. I like working with felt and these projects are easy and adorable. If you want to make some quick holiday trinkets that you’ll keep around even after the holidays are over, then you have to get this book.

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Coming next: Giveaway time! As a way of saying thanks to my dear readers for putting up with my sporadic blogging of late, I'll be giving away a copy of Amy Butler's Style Stitches. This is one nifty book, especially if you're an Amy fan like I am. Watch this space....

Two Preppy Pieces for My College Girl

2010-08-12T12:30:00.003-04:00

Piece #1: A preppy windbreaker. When you ask any of the well-trained student tour guides at Annie's college what's the thing they dislike most about the college, they all hesitate for a timed beat and then reply "Oh, it gets pretty windy here sometimes, but other than that I can't think of anything I don't like about it." So I made her a windbreaker.

My baby girl leaves for college in just a few days, and I guess I'm dealing with it fairly well, though my eyes are getting a little watery as I write this. Annie has been preparing Bob and me for her departure all summer long—she's never at home except to sleep. Still, we're all a little on edge right now, and I am vividly remembering the days before I left for college: I was nervous and scared and anything my parents or sisters said or did set me off yelling or crying. Annie is a cool cucumber kind of girl, but I can sense that she's feeling jittery.

But we'll all be okay. Move-in Day at her college will go just fine, and our little family will adjust. And there are always fall clothes to be made….

Windbreaker sewing details:

I used a vintage Vogue pattern (isn't 2001 a little recent to be considered vintage?) that I bought online from Lanetz Living. UPDATE: The pattern is Vogue 2659 Five Easy Pieces from 2002.
I added in-seam side pockets because how can you have a windreaker without pockets? I also sewed an interior pocket for Annie's Blackberry. I made the sleeves longer so they could be turned up and show the lining.
The fabric is a water-resistant, medium-weight cotton I bought for $2 or $1 a yard from a FabricMart closeout (online). I loved working with this fabric and am so happy I bought enough to make a pea coat from the BurdaStyle 01/09 issue for me.
The lining is a medium-weight cotton plaid I bought at Mood. It has enough substance to it to make this windbreaker perfect to wear while watching a football game on a chilly fall Saturday afternoon. (Annie is sorely lacking in the outerwear department, having mostly relied on sweatshirt hoodies to keep her warm in high school.)
I installed a plastic separating sport zipper so that the teeth are exposed. This has become my new favorite way to install sportswear zippers, because it's so easy: Turn under the seam allowance, press, then pin so the folded edge meets the outside edge of the zipper teeth. Stitch, one side at a time, using a zipper foot so you can sew right at the point where the folded edge meets the zipper edge.
This jacket looks like an adult version of the Ralph Lauren windbreakers I used to dress David in when he was little. But Annie likes it.

Piece #2: Flannel dorm pants in Annie's college colors. She already wore these pants for TV-watching with the boyfriend, so that means they were a big winner. Because everyone knows you gotta look cute for the BF.

I sewed these flannel pants in an evening using a basic pajama trousers pattern that I bought for $2.99. The only change I made was to have the waistband fall at the hip rather than the waist, and to use elastic that was two inches wide. It looks like the ribbon is what's keeping the pants up but that was purely a decorative touch: I stitched two pieces of ribbon on top of the front elastic and then pulled the ends through two buttonholes I made at the center front and tied them in a square knot. I bought the flannel online from Flannelworld and it is the softest, most luxurious flannel I have ever worked with. No comparison with the flannel you buy at the big box stores. (Note: Annie's pose in the photo makes it look like the crotch is too low but it's actually not.)

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My sewing machine is getting a tune-up and I need to take a break from sewing and blogging to recharge my batteries and get Annie off to college. I hope you all are having a wonderful summer and thanks for being such dear readers. Back soon!

Finished: Burda 7499 Cargo Vest

2010-07-20T20:57:00.000-04:00

Modeling my new Burda cargo vest near my Midtown office building.

I actually finished something just for me! This is my Burda cargo vest made from taupe cotton with lycra. I think it sort of looks like a vintage Girl Scout uniform without the patches, but I like it. My friend and photographer Karen says I should wear it sleeveless, with a white tank underneath. It actually looks kinda cool that way. At any rate, this vest is a welcome change from my usual uniform of cropped jackets.

The pattern: Burda 7499, view C. Just like working from the magazine but with the pattern pieces already traced for you. In other words, proceed with caution if you're a BurdaStyle/ BWOF novice and are unfamiliar with Burda directions. But I love the fit--perfect right from the get-go.

The fabric: Midweight taupe cotton with a hint of lycra. I got this for $4/yd from one of those stores on W.39th Street that always have those phony "Store Closing!" signs in the window. Rayon with lycra lining from Mood Fabrics.

Sewing the vest: It came together easily and a confident beginner could make this. I made flat-felled princess seams and inserted the sport zipper so the teeth would show. I sewed the lining separately and attached it by hand to the edges.

The little touches: Nail heads (from M&J Trims) on the pocket corners, and sewing my label on a square of the fashion fabric.

Another view of the vest front. You can see the felled seams and my label treatment.

The nail heads at the pockets. I love this touch; so glad I already had them in my stash.

The back.

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Not much to report on the sewing front: I'm busy making pillow covers for Annie's dorm room and running around assembling all the things she'll need for college. Thank you for your great dorm room tips, by the way. She finds out who her roommate is on August 1 and the two of them can coordinate all the finishing touches. Once September is here and I only have one kid at home, I expect to have lots more time for me-sewing again. Hang in there with me!

Are You Good To Your Sewing Machine?

2010-06-29T12:31:00.001-04:00

City Sewing at 300 W. 38th Street in the garment district sells and repairs sewing machines.

My Kenmore sewing machine is about three years old and it runs just as smoothly as the day I bought it. But lately I've been wondering if I'm being a bad owner by neglecting to give it a tune-up. I just noticed that City Sewing is offering a $65 tune-up special that includes "thorough cleaning, proper lubrication, setting of tensions, 30-point check, polishing of needle plate slot, and polishing of hook point." What do you think, dear readers? Are sewing machine tune-ups a good idea? Have you treated your machine to a tune-up lately?

This is Robin Rosado, City Sewing store manager. If you're looking for parts or feet you can email him (robin@citysewing.com) and send him photos of your particular machine so he can make sure what he has will work. I love the "wall of fame" behind him, don't you? I think the mark of a great neighborhood store is a wall of fame or a store cat, preferably both. (Please note that my mentioning City Sewing here is not an endorsement, as I haven't purchased any goods or services from them yet. Leave me a comment if you've had the opportunity to use City Sewing and what you thought.)

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What a week it has been! Prom on the 24th followed by graduation on the 26th. Annie is so happy with the way everything turned out: Her dresses were beautiful, the weather was beautiful, she was beautiful. Here she is above at one of the pre-prom picture-taking parties wearing a beaded chiffon dress by Sue Wong. I guess it's symbolic that she's walking away in this photo, right? SNIFF!!

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Taking a break! I need to take a week or so to attend to some family-related stuff (namely my father, who has vascular dementia), so I don't think I'll get any sewing or blogging done. Thanks as always for being such great readers, have a happy Fourth of July if you live in the U.S., and I'll be back soon.

Fabric Shopping in the Garment District: Elliott Berman Textiles

2010-06-04T15:30:00.000-04:00

[Note: Please visit my web site Shop the Garment District for the most up-to-date information about fabric and trim shopping in the Garment District.]

You know how when you take a friend for the first time to a store or place you love, and you're always a bit nervous that they might think it's awful and you're off your rocker? That's how it was when I brought AllisonC, Elizabeth and Carolyn to Elliott Berman Textiles today. I visited this showroom about two weeks ago, on the recommendation from Cathy whom I met at PR Weekend in May. Well, I loved it. What's not to love?: designer fabrics at better-than-retail prices. But what would my three friends—who all have excellent taste when it comes to fabric—think about it?

Dear readers, I am pleased to report they are as thrilled with Elliott Berman Textiles as I am. They all bought some fabulous pieces which I know they're dying to share with you on their respective blogs (give Allison some time to return to Hong Kong though).

Here's what you need to know about Elliott Berman Textiles: First of all, they are primarily a fabric wholesaler, supplying fabrics to many of the finer fabric stores in the garment district and elsewhere. They also have an online business, and their sales and promotions are very popular among sewists in-the-know. And they'll sell to walk-in customers like you and me—the four of us thought their retail prices were very agreeable. Not to boast, but we know our fabric prices so we can tell when we're getting a good deal. Join their website mailing list and Eugenia says they'll honor any online promotions when you visit the showroom.

And the customer service is exceptional! Matthew, Eugenia and Harvey are friendly and helpful but not smothering. They clearly love what they do.

Did I mention the designer names? Elliott Berman Textiles features Yves Saint-Laurent, Chloe, Gianfranco Ferre, Gucci, Prada, Versace, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni, Fendi, Laura Biagiotti, Loro Piana, Escada, Chanel, Calvin Klein and too many others to list here. Eugenia was more than happy to let me fondle a Chanel matelassé she saw me drooling over. I love to pet designer fabrics.

Here's Eugenia with a DKNY lightweight brocade that we all agreed would make a stunning trench coat.

These are some of the gernerously-sized swatches Elliott Berman Textiles has on hand to send to its customers. Eugenia says they are more than happy to send swatches to customers who call and describe what they're looking for.

A Marc Jacobs silk charmeuse.

I can't remember which designer this was from; I just know I loved it.

Bottom line: If you only have time to visit one or two stores in the garment district and you want designer fabric that's reasonably priced, then Elliott Berman Textiles is a must-visit.

Elliott Berman Textiles
225 W. 35th Street, 7th floor
(Go left when you get off the elevator; the showroom is opposite Nanette Lepore's retail administration office)
New York, New York
212-764-0180 • 800-609-6072
Showroom hours: Monday - Friday, 9 am - 5 pm

Prom: Oscar Night for the Teenage Set

2010-03-09T08:32:00.002-05:00

Prom Night: The American teenager's version of the Oscars.

Readers of this blog are well aware it's my daughter's senior year in high school. Beginning in April Annie and the other kids in her class have a whirlwind schedule of parties and events equivalent to an Oscar nominee on the awards circuit. I was fearful Annie was going to add an order for a custom prom dress onto my already full list of sewing projects for her, but fortunately she found a dress she fell in love with at Century 21. I fell in love with the price: only $149, marked down from $498. (For those of you who have not had the pleasure of shopping for a prom dress, dresses typically run between $300 and $800. Don't gasp, there are parents who think nothing of spending this kind of money on a dress their darling daughters will wear once.)

Annie's chosen dress is by Sue Wong, who specializes in floaty and feathery cocktail dresses and evening wear.

A closeup of the beading. I'm not crazy about this champagne color but it's been popular on the red carpet lately and I think Annie can pull it off with tan skin and some peachy cheeks and lips. Notice the bodice is the same shape as that Butterick muslin I've been wrestling with.

This dress is typical of what's on the market today for prom dresses. Hideous, isn't it? There are actually prom dresses for sale that make this look one like downright virginal.

When I think of prom I think of images from movies set in the 1950s, like "Back to the Future" and "Peggy Sue Got Married." Girls wore dresses like this one here. I love this dress! I want Annie and all her friends to wear dresses with big full skirts and the boys to wear white dinner jackets.

For my prom, I wore a dress similar in style to this pattern. It was made out of pale pink organza and I lurved it so much. When I slipped on a puddle of beer on the dance floor I looked like a big piece of cotton candy sliding across the room.

What did you wear to your prom? Are any of you sewing prom dresses this spring? Check out Kristine's progress; she's making a prom dress for one of her students. For my international readers, here's a history of the prom in the US.

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One of these days I'll have a finished project to post…. Just doing a lot of boring muslining and hand sewing these days. Have a great week everyone!

Finished: a Hit and a Miss

2010-01-20T08:33:00.002-05:00

Let's deal with the miss first. It was supposed to be this McCalls' cardigan, but my fabric was only 54 inches wide and that pattern requires 60 inches width. (Plus there were some teeny holes in the fabric, further complicating layout issues.) So I rooted through my patterns and found Vogue 8323.

The good news: This wool sweater-knit fabric from Mood Fabrics in NYC was wonderful to work with. I told you all previously that I was finished with knits, but I will make an exception for this stuff. It handles beautifully and it sews up like a merino wool sweater. The pattern was easy and I didn't have to make any adjustments fit-wise.

The bad news: The vest looks a little dated, no? Like oh-so 2002. And a red vest?! What was I thinking? I tried it over a white turtleneck with black trousers first and then with jeans, and both times I looked like I hired Liz Lemon ("30 Rock") to be my stylist. I think I am relegating it to strictly weekend wear.

The hit: an easy-to-make skirt for Annie. If you have been anywhere near the juniors' section in the past six months, you've seen these little elastic waistband skirts everywhere. Annie kept gravitating toward them and I kept saying "You know I can make a skirt like that for a fraction of the price." She graciously accepted my challenge, and we found this wide black-and-silver lurex elastic at M&J Trims for $10 a yard. I picked up the lavender satin at Ebad Fabrics for $4 a yard. Sewed two side seams, loosely gathered the waist and stitched it to the elastic, sewed a narrow hem. Worn by Annie to a party the next day. Total cost: $14, which is about right for disposable fashion like this.

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I spent the long weekend sewing dining room chair slipcovers and covering lamp shades with fabric. I'm pleased with how my living/dining room renovation all turning out, but sewing home dec is boring, right? I want to start sewing for spring…like maybe this adorable Cynthia Rowley jacket or vest. What about you, dear readers? Are you sewing spring or winter clothes now?

Back soon…

Finished in Time for the Holidays: Gold Collarless Jacket

2009-12-15T06:24:00.000-05:00

I can't help it: I have a thing for collarless jackets, both making them and buying them. Good thing the fashion magazines say you can't go wrong with a collarless jacket. Here's my latest addition to my faux-Chanel jacket wardrobe, made by yours truly.

Glad this jacket is finally finished, and just in time to wear to holiday parties. I plan on wearing it most often with a white-and-navy striped French sailor's shirt and jeans. Here are the details:

Fabric: Metallic bouclé from Mood Fabrics in NYC that is gold on one side and silver on the other; you could ostensibly choose either or. Supposedly this fabric is from Ralph Lauren. Lining is sheer white silk organza and the Hong Kong seams are finished in silk charmeuse, also from Mood.
Trim: A blue braid with gold accents from M&J Trims. I really wanted to find a bolder trim but Annie was with me at M&J and she has all the patience there of an antsy two-year-old strapped in a stroller. Fortunately she was engrossed for a bit by Orthodox Jewish teenage girls who were davening in between looking for trims.
Pattern: I guess I'd have to say this is my own basic design. It started out a few years ago as Textile Studios' Mandarin Collar Jacket pattern, but I've altered it so much it really doesn't resemble the original pattern any more. I wanted this design to be very basic and not very fitted, hence no darts or princess seams.

I added lined flap pockets (decorative only) that are topped with piping in silk charmeuse. The most time-consuming part of this jacket was hand-sewing the trim in place.

Here's a close-up of the fabric so you can see it has a split personality: Is it a gold bouclé, or is it silver? I loved the gold side a little more, but I didn't want to hide that fabulous silver beneath a lining. So I decided to use sheer silk organza as a lining because it let the silver peek through.

I treated the bouclé and the organza as one layer, first hand-basting the two fabrics together before any machine sewing to prevent shifting. I Hong Kong-finished all the seams with strips of silk charmeuse and then I catchstitched the seams in place to the organza. The outer edges of the jacket and sleeve hems were bias bound: I stitched the bias strips of charmeuse to the wrong side, then flipped the strips over and stitched in the ditch to tack them down. The raw edges of the bias strip were then covered up by the trim, which I hand-sewed in place.

I got the idea to treat the interior of this jacket this way from a gorgeous Prada jacket I fondled at Saks Fifth Avenue. The lining and the fashion fabric of this jacket were treated as one unit, and the seams were all Hong Kong-finished. The inside was as beautiful as the outside.

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What I'm working on now: Annie's red duchesse satin strapless dress! You may remember this was my project in Susan Khalje and Kenneth Kings's class in August. The dress is constructed; now I have to make the lining and put in a picked zipper. My deadline is January 8th, the night of "Winter Wonderland" at Annie's high school. Annie and I will head to M&J this weekend to pick out a black trim or embellishment to accent the waist. Stay tuned!

Finished: Wool Doublecloth Retro Coat

2009-11-19T06:32:00.000-05:00

Me in my wool coat: I love the combination of jewel tones and primary colors with black.

[My apologies for borrowing PatternReview's format due to lack of time.]

Pattern Description: BurdaStyle 10/08 #101. "Beginning sewers can easily handle this straight-cut coat with its simple shape! Elbow-length gloves or gauntlets make it wearable in cold winter weather as well."

Pattern Sizing: I cut a 42, though with tweaking it probably ended up closer to a 40. The pattern is sized generously because it's supposed to be for faux furs. Work out any sizing issues first by making a muslin.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the basic lines, the slightly retro look of it, with its A-line shape and elbow-length sleeves. I wanted a coat that would be easy to throw on over pants or a dress, but still had an elegant look to it.

Fabric Used: Doublecloth wool melton that I bought online from Fabric.com; white flannel-backed satin lining from Jo-Ann's. (Note: If you are using a flannel-backed lining for warmth, which I recommend, check out Haberman Fabrics. The quality of their lining is better than Jo-Ann's and they have a lot more colors.) Black frog closures from M&J Trim to further give the coat a retro look.

Note: I positioned the frogs so I could have a slight overlap of one front edge over the other. Normally, and correct me if I'm wrong, with frogs the edges should abut each other. That's too breezy for a winter coat though.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: One, I omitted the stand-up collar. Two, I changed the foldover front facing to a separate facing. I did this so I could more easily remove one of the layers of wool from the facing to eliminate bulk. (Doublecloth is two layers of fabric fused together; you separate the layers by peeling them apart and clipping the threads that hold the layers together.) I also removed a layer from the neck facing. Claire Shaeffer shares this tip about reducing the layers in her latest Fabric Sewing Guide. To keep the facings from rolling to the front, I pickstitched them in place from the wrong side. Three, I shortened the length to make it more of a car coat.

Would you recommend it to others? This makes a great beginner coat pattern, especially since there are no sleeves to set in and no lapels to worry about. You can really customize it with buttons, trim and accessories. (I'm thinking a faux fur neck funnel would be just the thing with my coat, along with some elbow-length black gloves.)

Helpful tip: This video on catch-stitching showed me a way of doing this stitch that makes it less visible on the right side. I catch-stitched all the seams and hems before laying in the lining.

Things I would have done in hindsight: One, I would have underlined the whole thing in organza so I could have catch-stitched the seams and hems to the organza rather than to the underside of the wool. There is just the slightest of indentations on the right side where I ever so delicately catch-stitched—that bothers me! Two, I would have interfaced the facings after I had removed one layer of wool. Not crucial with sturdy wool like this but it would have made the facings lie more smoothly on the underside.

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This weekend: It's a busy one! Exciting dinner plans for Friday night, the kids' high school football team is playing the division finals game, I'm buying paint for my living room redo, and we're cleaning out closets. (My husband actually suggested this last one, if that gives you any idea of our closets' state.) And if New Moon gets even halfway decent reviews, I'm gonna totally make like a vampire mom and see it. Have a great weekend everyone!

Ahoy, Maties! Sailor Minidress on Deck for Halloween

2009-10-27T06:32:00.000-04:00

Annie's "Saucy Sailor" Halloween costume: satin minidress made from a 1972 Simplicity pattern, red spike heels, and sailor cap. To be worn to school on Friday and to a party on Halloween.

I fully intended to show you a photo of Annie wearing this year's Halloween costume. It's absolutely adorable on her and she's very happy with it. But then I read this article in Sunday's New York Times, and I thought uh-oh, will I be pimping my daughter on the Internet if I post a photo of her? It's a little unnerving to think of where our photos can turn up these days. If you ever see a random photo of me somewhere, like as the before shot for a plastic surgery ad or in an over-50 dating service ad, let me know, okay? Same for my kids. Let's watch out for each other when it comes to unauthorized use of our images.

Sewing details: Satin fabric from Jo-Ann's, trim from my stash. Instead of facings I lined the bodice with self-fabric. Everything else was done quick and easy, like pinking the seams as a fast finish, because this is a costume, after all, plus anything made for a teenager has a limited lifespan. Vintage seventies Simplicity pattern bought online. Dress looks super-short but it meets Annie's school dress code (the old fingertip rule).

My son David is making it easy on me: He's wearing a "Eurasian Traveler Wig and Mustache" with his regular school clothes (t-shirt and jeans)—no sewing involved. What about you, dear readers? Are you finishing up Halloween costumes for your kids?

Note: I am aware Annie's Halloween outfit is a little on the trampy side. I've gotten comments in the past from readers who chastised me for allowing my daughter to wear high heels and short dresses, and I expect those readers will want to express their disapproval again. Feel free. Aside from the short skirts Annie wears occasionally, my daughter dresses more on the preppy/conservative side. This outfit is just a costume and is not representative of her moral character or mine. Nuff said.

Garment District Store Review: Lace Star

2009-10-20T06:36:00.000-04:00

Lace Star on W. 40th is the place to go for special occasion fabrics. Or if you just want to make something drop-dead spectacular.

[Note: Please visit my web site Shop the Garment District for the most up-to-date information about fabric and trim shopping in the Garment District.]

I've known for awhile that Lace Star is the go-to store if you need fabulous lace for special occasions. But it wasn't until Susan Khalje took me and my sewing classmates there on a field trip that I discovered Lace Star has much more beyond exquisite lace. There are bolts and bolts of wool bouclés, brocades, jacquards, silks and more. And it is all the most splendid stuff. Really top-rate, to-die-for designer fabrics.

I should warn you that this store is pricey. (And I've gotten reports that the sales staff is a little on the snooty side, although the woman who assisted us couldn't have been more helpful.) Most of the fabrics sell for more than $50 a yard, but I did see abundant bolts of silk charmeuse priced at $18 per yard. Keep in mind, however, that anything you make out of fabrics from Lace Star will look five times as expensive as what you actually paid.

Lace Star
215 West 40th Street (opposite Paron's Fabrics)
New York, NY
Hours: Mon-Fri 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; closed weekends
info@lacestar.com

Finished: Vintage-Style Faux Leopard Jacket

2009-10-13T06:31:00.002-04:00

I was going for a "Mad Men" look here with my faux fur jacket. Here I am channeling Joan Holloway. Or maybe the former Mrs. Roger Sterling.

As promised, dear readers, here's a photo of me in my jacket. All I did to get a version I liked was to fold the lapels back and move the buttons to the lower front of the jacket. I modeled it for the girls at Carolyn's sewing blogger klatch on Sunday and they agreed it looks much better this way.

I'm officially sick of writing about this jacket, and you probably are of reading about it, but here are the sewing details:

Faux leopard fur from Fabric.com's RL collection (sold out). Many, many thanks to Carolyn for telling me to buy it. (You little enabler you.) It has such a low pile that I was able to treat it like a velvet and not worry so much about fur everywhere. Black flannel-back satin lining from Haberman's, to add a little warmth to it.
Butterick 5259. The shoulders run narrow; adjust as necessary if you make this pattern.
This fur has vertical "stripes" of dark and light fur. I printed out the pattern line drawing and then used colored pencils to determine where I wanted the light and dark parts to fall.
I actually bagged this lining, which is unusual for me because I like attaching linings by hand. I followed Butterick's adequate directions and ended up machine-stitching virtually all of this jacket.

Bottom line: I'm happy with the results. It's a fun jacket to wear and it was easy to make. Having lots of outerwear choices helps make the cold weather a little more bearable, right?

Detail shot of the lower front. The three buttons cost as much as the fabric did.

Yippee! I had enough left over to make a muffler. I'll definitely try sewing with faux fur again if I ever come across nice stuff like this in the future.

Finished: Stash-Buster BWOF Vest

2009-09-17T06:15:00.000-04:00

Burda World of Fashion vest, 01/09 issue, #124

Let's hear it for vests that are easy to make and use up aging stash! I made Bob (DH) take a quick photo of me before he left for work; after this shot I changed into khaki pants and tucked the shirt in. Looks fine that way too.

The sewing details:

Fabric: a paisley brocade from the garment district, brown china silk lining.
Trim: I sewed thin brown velvet ribbon along the front right edge.
Stuff I did differently from the pattern directions: 1) omitted the back tie because I couldn't find a suitable buckle at Jo-Ann's; 2) attached the lining by hand instead of following BWOF's classic wooden spoon directions. I admit it: I like hand sewing. Does that make me a freak?
The fit: Very slim. I cut a 42 and ended up letting out the front darts just slightly so I could breathe. I advise sewing this up in a fabric with a little lycra in it for stretchability.
Recommendations: Go with six buttons rather than four to eliminate the small amount of gappage (is there such a word?) you get at the front opening.

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This is why I blog: Sigrid's departure from the blogosphere this week had me considering why I bother to blog. After all, it's time-consuming and I don't earn any money or vendor discounts for my efforts. But then I sat down and read all the thoughtful and constructive advice several readers gave me on my "Foiled By Fabric" post and it was like BINGO!, this is why I blog: To get this kind of free help and attention from experienced sewers is worth every second it took me to write the post. I am so grateful to everyone who wrote replies, and I've been re-reading your comments as I consider what to do next. My immediate plan of action is to put this project away for a bit and work on it in my head as I tackle an easier project. Which brings me to...

What I'm working on now: I am making this "slim-cut silk jacket appropriate for the office or a dinner date" (BurdaStyle 06/09, #105), out of a coppery stretch rayon blend I bought from Fabric.com. The site describes it as shirting fabric but it's more suitable for a lightweight jacket like this one. The contrasting lapels will be made from a remnant of champagne-colored silk charmeuse. I'm hoping it will make a nice transitional piece and will pose absolutely no construction problems whatsoever. (Though isn't it always the supposedly easy projects that are the ones that end up killing both you and your sewing machine?) Have a great weekend everyone!

Monograms: Designing and Hand Embroidering

2009-09-14T05:42:00.000-04:00

Nothing says elegance like a hand-embroidered monogram. This beautiful monogram is by Leontine Linens; they have oodles more monogram styles on their site.

I only lived in the South (New Orleans) for six years but the region's obsession with monograms was one of those things that became imprinted on my brain. I love monograms! I would monogram everything in my house if I could. (In reality, the only monogrammed items I own are a L.L. Bean tote bag, a nightgown, the kids' backpacks from when they were little, a couple of preppy handbags I never use, and some old linens. I do manage to keep myself in check.)

I also love to embroider and every few years I'll hand-embroider a monogram on something, usually a gift. (Did any of you dear readers ever get a "My Hankies" embroidery kit when you were little? That's what got me hooked at an early age on embroidering.)

My most recent embroidering project was this Butterick robe I made, which cried out for a simple monogram. I chose these Art Deco style letters, in keeping with the robe's Chinoise look, and I designed the border at the corners. The letters are embroidered in a padded satin stitch (navy silk embroidery floss, two strands) and outlined in a stem stitch (gold silk embroidery floss, two strands).

How to make your own monograms:

1. First, choose a typeface. You can select fonts available on your computer, you can buy fonts online, or you can use monogram transfer books or patterns.

2. Next, enlarge or reduce the type you've chosen to a size appropriate for your application. The font I used above came from one of these embroidery transfer books below, and I increased the size on my copier by about 20 percent.

Monogram transfer books and vintage monogram transfer patterns are readily available online. I bought these books from Amazon and the patterns from Etsy.

3. Now you're ready to transfer your monogram design to your fabric. If the fabric is transparent enough, I'll place the monogram on a lightbox, put the fabric on top and trace the outline of the font lightly with a pencil or washable marker. Or, I'll use transfer paper and a stylus to trace over the design onto the fabric. Personally, I'm not a fan of iron-on transfers, because there's no room for mistakes if you mis-position the design.

4. It will depend on your fabric if you need some kind of reinforcement, like fusible interfacing. I prefer not to use backing if I can avoid it, and especially if you can see the wrong side of your item.

5. Place your fabric in an embroidery hoop and stitch away. Most often I'll use a padded satin stitch for monograms, but you can use whatever stitch you like. Filling a letter with stem or chain stitches looks nice too, and you don't have to be quite as precise as with a satin stitch.

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My vague directions assume you have a knowledge of embroidery. Here are some helpful links if you are interested in creating your own monogram:

Needle 'n Thread's tips for hand embroidery: An excellent resource with clear photos and directions. I visited this site for a refresher on neatly starting and finishing when embroidering.
Harold's monogram fonts: Fun and attractive monogram fonts to purchase and download.
1930s monogram fonts: Free monogram fonts from the thirties you can print and then size
Leontine Linens: Examples of monogram styles. Wouldn't it be swell to have your own custom monogram embroidered on all your fine linens? (Do 600 thread-count sheets on sale from Target qualify as fine linen?)
Monogrammed Linen Shop: More examples of beautiful hand-embroidered monograms from a London shop. The two small monograms here are courtesy of MLS.
Just Something I Made: This craft blogger does nifty things with monograms beyond embroidering them. Just search "monograms" on her site.
An article in The New York Times about Roger Federer's monogram: The tennis star is taking heat for sporting a monogram but I say you stick with it, Roger. It's classy.

Finished: Butterick Chinoise Robe

2009-09-09T05:30:00.001-04:00

Butterick 4406, an "unlined, loose-fitting robe with long sleeves, collar, button loop closure and stitched hem."

This robe is proof that I am becoming my mother. She always had a collection of pretty robes. Me, I have two robes to my name: a terrycloth wrap robe from Lands End and a fleece wrap robe from Target. A comfy but entirely utilitarian look. So I'm classing up my act by adding this robe to my wardrobe.

The details:

The fabric is some satin jacquard/whatever from my local home dec fabric store. It's machine washable and a little bit slinky but not in a revealing way. I bought fabric here because I was in one of those MUST. HAVE. FABRIC. NOW moods and couldn't wait until my next trip into the city. Will I look like a settee in this robe? Hope not but I don't mind if I do.
The contrast collar and cuffs are made out of dark blue denim from Jo-Ann's. I like the contrast of upscale/downscale: The denim keeps it from being too frou-frou. I hand-embroidered a border (stem stitch) on the collar and cuffs.
This pattern runs huge, and I mean gigantic. I cut a Medium but I scaled it down to something closer to an XS. And the sleeves run way too long for even someone of my height (5'7").
I added inseam side pockets and a loop at the neck to hang it up on a hook. Just follow Butterick's directions for the button loops and use what you'll have left over to make the hanging loop.
This is an easy, straightforward pattern. Just watch out for the jumbo sizing.

I hand-embroidered a monogram because, well, every girl should own at least one robe with her monogram on it. I'll go into more details about embroidering this monogram and how to make your own monogram in a future post. (And yes, "Lindsay T" is my online alias and not my real name, though it is a family name and I'll answer to it.)

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Other recently finished projects: This past long weekend I made a little tailored vest from BWOF 01/09. "Today" anchor Meredith Viera has been wearing vests lately and they look good on her, so I thought I'd sew one out of some fabric I have in my stash. I'm annoyed at myself because I accidentally made a tiny snip on the lining. Once I get the buttons on and the vest photographed I'll share it with you here.

Why You Should Take a Sewing Class Taught by Experts

2009-09-03T09:00:00.001-04:00

Teacher Kenneth King fits Laura's dress on her in class. Laura bought that stunning fabric at Lace Star; cosmetics heiress Aerin Lauder wears a dress made of the same material in the latest InStyle magazine.

Dear readers, I am here today to tell you that if you've never taken a sewing class from the masters, this is something you should definitely add to your life list.

I'll admit I hesitated before signing up for the "Sit and Sew" hosted by Susan Khalje and Kenneth King. Even though it was being held in NYC and I could skip airfare and hotel, this is still an expensive class. But I haven't taken an extended sewing class since I was 15 and I felt it was time for some hands-on help. So I mailed a check and decided that I would make a strapless dress for my daughter Annie, complete with a boned bodice—something I've never sewn before.

After four days of intensive learning and lots of sewing, particularly hand sewing, I emerged with a dress that's on its way to being beautiful and a head exploding with knowledge. Susan and Kenneth are excellent teachers, dear readers. I mostly worked with Susan on my dress, as she is a couture sewer extraordinaire and could probably bone a dress blindfolded. She patiently guided me every step of the way, always speaking to me and my classmates in a gentle voice, like a nursery school teacher soothing a room of cranky four-year-olds. (That's Susan in the orange jacket.)

And Kenneth is the King of Fit. I wish I had brought along a muslin or two just to have him work it over on me. He has a four-part article on fit appearing in Threads soon and I am eager to read it. And don't let those serious head shot photos of Kenneth you've seen around fool you: The man is a hoot! He dispenses anecdotes as quickly as he can spot a poorly drafted sleeve cap. My classmates and I loved seeing pieces of his fun and funky vintage wardrobe and the fur jackets he made (left).

I still have a lot of work ahead on Annie's strapless dress, but I'm confident about what I have to do next and feel like I could easily tackle a couture little black dress. In sum, these are the benefits I experienced from taking this class:

Seeing live how things are done. It's one thing to read a Threads article or watch a video, it's something completely else to observe firsthand. For example, picked zippers always look so hard to accomplish, but then Susan conducted a mini-lesson on them and we were all amazed at how easy picked zippers actually are.
Getting immediate assistance and guidance from two sewing pros. I never felt lost or unsure of myself because Susan and Kenneth were always available to point us in the right direction.
Seeing and learning from what my classmates made. As we were tightly packed into the sewing studio we couldn't help but watch and learn from each other. Two women were making ball gowns and it was interesting seeing those take shape. Laura was working on achieving perfect fit through a sloper, and Joanne and Ann were wrestling with expensive lace while Kristine (left) quilted her Chanel jacket. It was all so...interesting!
Broadening my knowledge by watching mini-lessons from Susan and Kenneth on a variety of topics. I lost the paper where I wrote down all the tutorials the two gave, but here are a few I remember: inserting a picked zipper, making a Chinese boullion knot, attaching a couture lining, shaping lace, working with trim, inserting a gusset, and boning a bodice.
Shopping for fabric and trim with a pro. Susan took us on field trips to Lace Star and M&J Trims and showed us what she thought was fabulous. Now I pride myself on having a decent eye for trims but I pale in comparison to Susan. She made some knock-em-dead trim and button choices for Kristine's Chanel jacket.

If I can swing it and it doesn't interfere with taking Annie off to college, I'll definitely take this class again with Susan and Kenneth. Have I convinced you to join me there?!

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Coming soon at Lindsay T Sews: Reviews of Lace Star and Sew Fast, Sew Easy, my completed Butterick robe, hand-embroidering a monogram, the making of a strapless dress, and why I'd rather pay $30 a yard for fabric than $6 a yard. Have a great Labor Day weekend (U.S.) and I'll be back next week!

Hey Kids, Going Back to Class Can Be Fun!

2009-08-29T21:18:00.004-04:00

Created with Admarket's flickrSLiDR.

Just finished Day 3 of "Sit and Sew" with Susan Khalje and Kenneth King in NYC, and I'm having a blast. Wish it didn't have to end tomorrow! Enjoy these photos from class, and I think you might recognize some blogging faces: Ann, Joanne, Kristine and Laura. Check out these girls' blogs next week for their takes on our experience, and I'll post more about class too. Loving it!

A Strapless Dress Muslin for Class

2009-08-25T05:31:00.003-04:00

Daughter Annie's strapless dress muslin made for the sewing class I am taking in NYC this Thursday through Sunday.

One thing I have been working on recently is this strapless dress muslin for the sewing class I'm taking with instructors Susan Khalje and Kenneth King. Both are known for their expertise with formalwear, and considering Annie is now a senior in high school (gasp! where did the time go?!) and has the need for some dressy dresses, I thought I'd try making a strapless dress with a boned bodice.

Annie looked at hundreds of images of strapless dresses and decided she wanted a simple shape—no full fifties-style skirts for her. What you see here is a hybrid of the bodice from McCalls 5849 and the skirt from BurdaStyle 08/09 #128 dress. The fashion fabric Annie chose is red duchesse satin from Mood, and it will be lined in matching red silk crepe. Plus there will be organza and other layers I'll try to take you through as I build this thing. (Thank goodness this dress only requires 1.5 yards of fabric.) The goal is to have a boned bodice that stands up by itself but is comfortable to wear.

I emailed these photos to Susan for her input before class, since Annie won't be there for Susan and Kenneth to critique the muslin on her. She says it's pretty close, just neaten up the side seams a bit and she can help me with the shirring that's happening around the bust area.

Annie is so happy with the way this muslin looks that she has been texting all her friends, telling them they have to go to her school's Winter Wonderland formal this year so she can go too and wear this dress. (Kids at her school can be blasé about formals.) Hopefully her tan lines will fade by then!

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As promised, some vacation photos from our recent trip to Pennsylvania. Above is Gettysburg town square, with a rainbow that appeared after dinner. I bought vintage quilt blocks and a quilt top from an antique store here.

My son David standing by a monument to the 20th Maine Infantry at Little Round Top, Gettysburg. A distant relative on my side of the family was awarded the Medal of Honor for his valor at this very spot. I highly recommend visiting Gettysburg: the town, the National Military Park visitor's center and museum, and the battlefields. It was a much more impressive experience than I was expecting, and I wouldn't mind going back to see more of the battlefields. (I am turning into an even bigger history geek in my old age.)

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Hang in there with me for some more erratic blogging. I'll try to take photos of my class so I can share that experience with you next week. Have a great week everyone!

Finished: Beachy Tunic From July '09 BWOF

2009-07-10T05:36:00.001-04:00

BWOF 07/09 #125 tunic

[With credit to Deepika and PatternReview for developing the format, I am being lazy and borrowing my review of this tunic I just wrote for PR.]

Pattern Description: "Purism meets opulence. The cut of this tunic is so simple that neckline and slit can tolerate a border of big, contrasting faux gemstones and beads. White trousers/pants complete the elegant look."

Pattern Sizing: I cut a 42. With BWOF's minimal ease, this fits me snugly across the upper chest. But then the midsection was HUGE on me and I looked like I was six months pregnant, so I probably ended up with a 38 in the middle after taking the front seams in.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Basically yes, though I did not go the sew-on jewel route for a couple of reasons. A, I was using a print and jewels wouldn't pop as much as on a solid; and B) sew-on jewels are EXPENSIVE! You know I have easy access to NYC's garment district and I search for inexpensive sew-on jewels there all this time. You can find some but they are either costly or look cheap and don't come in many colors. To sew on jewels similar to the ones BWOF shows, expect to pay $35 to $50 for the jewels. If anyone has a source for inexpensive sew-on jewels I'm not aware of, do tell!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Typical hard-to-understand BWOF directions. Here's what ya gotta do: Sew the darts. Sew the side panels to the front and back. Construct the combo facing (all-in-one arm and neck facing) and interface as needed. Get out your Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing or other sewing reference and follow those directions for attaching a combo facing and sewing the shoulder seams. Sew the hem. Attach any trim or embellishments by hand or machine.

Fabric Used: A poly woven with a cottony hand from Paron's Annex. I was attracted to this print because it seemed very beachy to me.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None, other than taking in the front seams about an inch through the midsection, as mentioned above. Instead of jewels, I used some jute-colored trim I bought at M&J Trims to adorn the neckline slit (attached by hand).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I could see making this again next year, as another tunic or a longer beach coverup. It's actually pretty easy to make.

DD's comment on seeing me model the completed tunic: "Very Lilly Pulitzer, Mom."

I would have made this photo larger but I detest the way my eyes look like slits here. Five years ago my optometrist judiciously told me to start saving up for plastic surgery because I had inherited the type of eye lids that droop over the eye with aging (example: Joe Biden). Waah, he was right! Hmm, college tuition or plastic surgery?

Here's a detail shot of the trim I used in the front. I like the color combo of ocean blue and sand—reminds me of rich people's beach houses.

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Have a great weekend everyone! I'll be back next week blogging about who knows what and giving away some more nifty stuff.….

Finished: Summer White Jacket with Navy Grosgrain Trim; Plus, Interfacing Sale

2009-07-02T10:01:00.004-04:00

Vogue 7975

Just one new jacket for summer this year and this baby is it, a white cotton twill number with navy grosgrain and braid trim. I am enamored of this jacket style and be prepared for me to bore you with versions of this every season. The original inspiration is Chanel, d'accord, but lately I look to Thakoon to see his takes on this collarless style.

Sewing details

I've already made this jacket before, so I just got out my muslin and cut away, knowing the fit would be perfect. The fabric is cotton twill with lycra from A.K. Fabrics, and the stretch poly lining came from NY Elegant Fabrics. The navy petersham ribbon was purchased online from The Sewing Place (you heard that, not everything I buy comes from the garment district) and I bought the navy braid at M&J Trims.

Cotton twill is not a fancy fabric, and I wanted this jacket to be a softer, more feminine version of a denim jeans jacket. I topstitched the princess seams and the sleeve seams for a casual look.
Originally I had planned to line this jacket with a fun navy-and-white poly print I found at a rummage sale. I even made the lining first, following my good friend Ann's advice, only to discover it was visible through the twill. Waah. But the stretch poly lining fabric in white was probably the best choice anyway, because it really moves with the stretch twill. Lesson learned: check see-through possibilities first.
As much as I love jackets, I'm not crazy about them in the warmer months. They're just too jackety, if you know what I mean. So I deliberately made this as unjackety as possible. The front lining comes right to the edge of the jacket without a facing, and I only fusible-interfaced it at the neck, front edges and hem. The result is a jacket that wears more like a blouse.
I reviewed Claudine's tutorial on shaping petersham ribbon so I could get it to curve properly around the neck. "Wet ribbon, then shape while wet or damp" basically covers what you've got to do. Note: You cannot get regular straight-edged grosgrain ribbon to curve; it's like forcing a square peg into a round hole. You have to use petersham ribbon with the ridged sides if you want it to curve. Plus petersham just looks so much more couture.
Originally I had planned on placing the braid everywhere the ribbon was on the jacket, but I liked it better in a small dose just on the pockets. Less is more, right? Though I think the pockets are crying out for some more embellishment, I'm just not sure what. Maybe a fancy faux monogram or crest in navy thread?
I just hate sewing on pockets. These are attached by hand using the method I learned from Marji in the Great Coat Sewalong. You get excellent results with hand sewing but you just have to so unbelievably meticulous to get perfect placement of the pockets. This time three out of four went on just right the first time, the fourth I had to rip out and sew on again.
Seven big hooks from Pacific Trimmings keep the front edges closed.

Here's a closeup of the braided pockets.

The perfect shoes for this jacket: I bought these Tommy Bahama cap-toe, navy-and-white ballet flats from Amazon recently. I love 'em but they're still pinchy-toe new. I would have worn them with this jacket Tuesday but I was in the city and I never walk around Manhattan in uncomfortable shoes. (Learned my lesson the hard way on this one.)

Recognize some of these folks? We had such a good time together in the garment district, and I was so lucky I had a meeting in NYC that day so I could join them for lunch and dinner. The benefits of living close to a sewing mecca! (Summerset has a better photo of me in this jacket on her site.)

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We always need more interfacing, right? My friend Pam has a sale on her fabulous interfacing right now, so do yourself a favor and stock up while the price is right. I've ordered from her before and have been so pleased with the quality and the instructions for use. You will never buy chain-store interfacing again after you've used the good stuff.

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Hooray for the holiday weekend here in the United States! I love the Fourth of July. I put the flag up this morning, I'm wearing my 1960s enamel flag pin as we speak, and I have a strong hankering to make potato salad and deviled eggs. Cue up the John Phillip Sousa and some awesome fireworks and I'm all set.

DH and DS are leaving early Sunday morning for Denver. They'll be there a week on a church mission trip. Hmm, with the two of them out of the house I could possibly get some more sewing time in. I bought three great prints this week (two jerseys and one cotton) and Carolyn told me they count as stash. Ack! I can't be Ms. Anti-Stash and then secretly have one. I have to sew like a demon in case Carolyn ever visits my house and then outs me in her blog with photos of a stash I claim I don't have. (Carolyn and I are friends in real life and we like to keep each other on our toes, right C?)

Don't forget to add yourself as a Google Friend follower (click left) if you want to participate in my month of giveaways that starts next week. Have a great weekend everyone and I'll be back next week!

A Sewing Book Review and a Jacket Befitting a Pop Star

2009-06-30T05:01:00.000-04:00

As I may have mentioned, I work for a company with ties to the publishing industry. So I'm around books all day long, and I get to see new craft books, including books about sewing. I hate to sound jaded, because I love books and want people to keep buying them, but I think most sewing books are largely underwhelming. I'm talking about the ones that feature easy projects and have too many pillows and ugly skirts. Bleh.

But I am in love with Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross. It features just the right balance of stylish clothing, accessories and stuff for the home; it's well-written and beautifully photographed. More important, the instructions and diagrams are simple and easy to follow. Pattern sheets, à la BWOF but less complicated, are included. This would be the perfect book for someone who is a beginning sewist or returning to sewing. Include some fabric and it would make a wonderful gift. I'm thinking of making the Yard-Sale Skirt (long and swishy) and I know Stacy made Kai's Shirt for her little Gerber baby boy. [Note: If you do purchase this book, visit Heather's blog and print out the errata notice before you begin any project.]

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Vogue out-of-print 8301: With the right embellishments, befitting a pop star?

Last week was a tough one for us baby boomers, losing two icons of our youth. No one can get me on the dance floor faster than Michael Jackson. Period. And going to college in the late seventies in Texas, where her fame was omnipresent and every guy I knew had her poster in his dorm room, I desperately wanted to be as awesome as Farrah Fawcett. So in tribute to MJ I just may move making this Vogue military jacket up on my fall sewing list. Any thoughts on appropriate Farrah tribute patterns?

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I feel like giving away some nifty stuff this July! I'll be shopping in the garment district and picking up some tailoring and dressmaking supplies to give away each week in July, starting the week of July 6th. To be eligible for the random drawings you must be a follower of this blog in Google Friend Connect as of July 5, 2009. Just click on the "Follow" button at left.

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Finished! My faux-Chanel jacket is done and as I write this I hope to wear it to lunch with some sewing friends who're in town. Maybe I can persuade one of them to take a photo of me in it so I can show you later this week. Stay tuned!

My New Lindsay T Labels Are In and I Like 'Em

2009-06-25T18:03:00.000-04:00

I bought myself a little treat: new labels! When I ran out of my Lindsay T labels from Namemaker I shopped around and then ordered these embroidered labels from Worldwidelabel on Etsy on June 5; they arrived this Monday from Hong Kong. My new Lindsay T labels are 1" x 2.5", cost only about $0.18 per label for 300 quantity, and I'm really happy with them. I created the design in Photoshop using my logotype, sent Worldwidelabel a jpeg and that was it.

You won't mistake these for a high-end designer label, mind you, but they're perfect for the mostly casual wear I sew for my daughter and me. I find the simple act of placing my label on the clothes I make forces me to hold myself to higher standards, so that's a big reason why I splurge on something no one ever sees. Question: Do you have your own labels? I'd like to know if there are other labelholics out there.

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Erica B started an interesting dialog this week about posting reviews on PatternReview. I told her I will continue to post reviews (as long as I'm making something that hasn't been done to death and I can provide new insight or advice) because I still use PR when I'm researching a new pattern. But what I feel conflicted about—when it comes to PR—is that I don't have the time to visit the Review Gallery and leave comments for members. And I feel bad about that, because the encouraging comments I first got there are what propelled me to resume sewing again after so many years away. Truthfully, though, I prefer to visit your blogs and comment there, because to me blogger-to-blogger conversations are more dynamic.

What about you, dear readers? Do you leave comments at PR's Review Gallery on a regular basis?

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It's been a busy week here in Lake Wobegon…. The kids took their last finals, my son turned 14 (that's DS at left; he hasn't forbidden me from showing his face on my web site like his sister has), the office was hectic, though I did manage to work on my white faux-Chanel summer jacket. It's really going to be a cross between a shirt and a jacket, and after looking like a lab technician's coat for so long it's starting to show some promise. And big news: It's not supposed to rain this weekend here in the Northeast! I think there's a beach chair somewhere with my name on it. Have a great weekend everyone!

Trim Shopping in the Garment District: So-Good Ribbons

2009-06-16T13:01:00.000-04:00

So-Good Ribbons has been at this W. 38th Street location for 44 years.

[Note: Please visit my web site Shop the Garment District for the most up-to-date information about fabric and trim shopping in the Garment District.]

I admittedly contradict myself when it comes to retail: I want my Jo-Ann Fabric stores to be brand-spanking new and big, but I want my garment district stores to look like venerable institutions, just like So-Good Ribbons' shop in the garment district area. Who cares about a little dust when the prices are as good as these? There are rows and rows of grosgrain, satin, velvet and embroidered ribbons in every color and design imaginable. (No petersham though, drat.) I've been shopping for ribbon at So-Good since 1990 and it's always the first place I think of when I need lots of ribbon or a ribbon in special colors.

I popped in there last week to buy some 3-inch striped ribbon in the colors of the university my niece will be attending; I'm going to use it to decorate a fleece throw I'm contributing to her dorm room. I happened to have some other ribbon in my hand when I went to pay, but I told the person at the register I only wanted the 3-inch ribbon. "What the heck, I'll give you some of this other one anyway," he said cheerfully, and he cut off two yards of it for me. Free! It was really nice ribbon too. And I didn't even identify myself as someone who blogs about the garment district. Can you imagine this kind of generosity happening at a fabric chain store?

Don't be put off by So-Good's small size or disorganized appearance when searching for ribbon. The staff is very helpful at finding what you need and accommodating special orders. They have binders filled with swatches of ribbons in every shade.

So-Good Ribbons
28 W. 38th St., between 5th and 6th Avenues
212-398-0236
Hours: Monday - Friday, 9 am - 5 pm

Trim Shopping in the Garment District: Joyce Trimming

2009-06-16T13:00:00.002-04:00

Like M&J Trimmings, Joyce Trimming has a brick-and-mortar store in the garment district area and an online store (eJoyce.com).

[Note: Please visit my web site Shop the Garment District for the most up-to-date information about fabric and trim shopping in the Garment District.]

Between M&J Trimmings and Pacific Trims, I can usually find everything I need when it comes to embellishments. But I always welcome more choices, so I was happy to recently check out Joyce Trimming on W. 38th, a small but well-stocked and brightly lit store. They carry buttons, buckles, crystals, appliques, ribbons, nailheads and loads more at competitive prices. The store is close to M&J Trimmings, so if you don't find what you're looking for there, or are overwhelmed by M&J's size, you can always pop into Joyce's.

Joyce Trimming seems to carry a small smattering of everything embellishment-wise.

Lots of jewels.

Lots of trim.

Joyce Trimming
109 W. 38th Street
212-719-3110
Hours: Monday - Friday, 8:30 am - 6:30 pm; Saturday 10 am - 5 pm

BWOF 06/09 #115: That Dress With the Hole in Back

2009-06-11T12:15:00.000-04:00

My daughter wearing this dress she spied in the June issue of Burda World of Fashion and declared "I want that!"

I know the way to get the next generation of young women hooked on sewing: Get them all copies of the June issue of BWOF. There are so many pieces in this issue that really appeal to teens and twenty-somethings, much more so than anything they've seen from Simplicity's Project Runway or McCall's Hilary Duff lines. I showed it to the teenage sisters I mentor and they both found several things they want to make right away, including this dress.

BWOF 06/09, #115

Sewing Details

First off, a very easy dress to make. It's basically a tank dress with two back darts and a keyhole that you can sew in a weekend.

Fabric: A navy cotton lycra knit from Spandex House. This is not a flimsy little jersey or ribbing, which I thought wouldn't adequately support the darts and hole in the back; this has some weight and coverage to it.
Tissue-fit before you cut. One, the hole in the back is much larger than it appears in the model shot. I reduced the circumference by about two inches and still look how big it is! Your bra straps will show if you do not make it smaller. I also raised the front neckline by about two inches. Two, based on my daughter who is an A cup, I think this pattern runs a little big in the bust area. You may want to make a muslin first.
BWOF recommends stabilizing the hole, neck and arm area with Vilene tape, which is not available here in the U.S. Nancy K advised me to bind the neck and arm area, which I did using self-binding, and to cut a piece of fusible interfacing (on the crossgrain) in the shape of a ring. I took the piece of fabric that dropped out when I cut the circle out—the donut hole, if you will—traced around it and then traced again 1/4-inch on the outside, giving me a big ring of interfacing. I fused this ring around the hole, turned the fabric under about 3/8 inches and machine-stitched 1/4-inch from the edge. Nice and stable.

Design Details

I had to argue with my client to get to add this white topstitching detail to the dress. "Ew, Mom, it will be too nautical," she said.
"Please allow me to fulfill my design vision," I insisted. "Do you want this dress to look like something you bought at American Eagle Outfitters or at a chic little boutique in Soho?" Snob appeal gets her every time. Using white topstitching thread, I did a simple running stitch by hand around the circle, neck and arms. I wanted to outline the back darts in this same running stitch but DD put her foot down. (You have to let them win some of the time.)

End Result

A slim-fitting dress that DD plans to wear as a beach coverup and on hot summer days. She loves it. I know my efforts have been worth it when she puts on a piece I've made without me having to nag and say something like "when are you going to wear that dress I made you?" My kids will not believe this, but I actually don't enjoy nagging them. Well, sometimes I do….

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How BWOF Works

A number of readers have emailed me or asked in comments how exactly Burda World of Fashion works, so here's a quick explanation: BWOF is a monthly magazine that you subscribe to. It looks like a glossy fashion magazine but it has patterns in it. In the center of each issue are directions and pattern layouts for each pattern. You need to trace the patterns you want to sew. It takes a little time to trace the patterns and to make sense of BWOF's instructions, which occasionally can be a little confusing, but BWOF lovers agree the stylish results make it all worth it. I recommend you buy a few issues before you decide if you want to subscribe. You can sometimes find single copies at the newsstand, PatternReview or elsewhere on the Internet, or through dealer GLP.

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Weekend Plans

Friday night I am meeting some friends in NYC for dinner and I am very excited about this; Saturday I am getting my hair done and running various errands; Sunday I am relaxing and maybe, just maybe I might get started on my summer faux-Chanel jacket. I bought five yards of navy petersham ribbon for the trim and I need to visit M&J Trims to see what contrasting trim I can layer on top of the ribbon. I'd like to have this jacket done by the Fourth of July. Have a great weekend everyone!

Just Skirting Around

2009-06-09T06:30:00.010-04:00

Me in my new pencil skirt that I made out of a mini-challenge with three other sewists. (My legs are not as blotchy as they look here—ick!)

"Every now and then your wardrobe needs an injection of something, new, trendy and fun. That was the thought when we spied the pencil skirts shown in the large graphic prints and florals in the June 2009 issue of Lucky Magazine. These skirts provide a great way to update a classic...so with that photo spread and a little conversation, we—Marji, Carolyn, Cidell and me—were ready to create our own versions. Here's my interpretation of an updated yet classic pencil skirt; please visit Marji, Carolyn and Cidell's web sites to see theirs."

Inspiration:
A feature in Lucky magazine highlighting the pencil skirt done in large scale prints/graphic prints.

The Challenge: Create a pencil skirt that works on our own body and use a bold print. Participants are Carolyn, Cidell, Marji and me. (Marji proposed the challenge after reading Carolyn's post of May 9 and asked a few fellow sewists she emails and talks to regularly if they wanted to participate.)

Pattern used: BWOF 06/09 #104, with modifications. I thought I wanted a skirt with a yoke, but after making two muslins I decided this was not the best look for me (too much emphasis on my midriff). So I omitted the yoke and came up with a no-waistband skirt that sits about an inch below my waist. Just two pieces of fabric with two darts at the waist, front and back.

Fabric and fabric source: A cotton twill with loads of lycra from Paron's Fabrics in NYC. The amount of crosswise stretch in this fabric is unbelievable! That means it's extremely comfortable to have on, but I had to take extra measures that it wouldn't drop to the floor after a few hours of wear (see below). There was no need to line this fabric (hooray!)

Construction details: Once I got the fit down, this skirt went together in no time. I relied heavily on Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing, which has extensive details on constructing a waistband with petersham ribbon. Go get this book before you make a skirt or pants with a ribbon waistband.

Because of the tremendous stretch in this fabric, I needed to ensure the waistband wouldn't expand. Following Sandra B's advice, I easestitched the waistband first, then I took a strip of the selvedge edge and stitched that on top of the easestitching. I graded the seams and then shaped and attached the white petersham ribbon. Sounds complicated but it was very easy to do.

I felt like I needed to "ground" this preppy print somehow and give it some details with holding power (does that make sense?). Luckily I have a 50-yard roll of navy grosgrain ribbon (left over from a home dec project) that was just calling out for me to use it. I created pocket flaps and added the navy ribbon as trim, and I added a band of ribbon at the outer waistband:
There is a 7-inch invisible zipper at the side, but that's about it for construction details. I didn't even need to worry about a slit for walking ease because of the fabric's stretch. I definitely took the easiest route of the four of us!

And there you have it, my pencil skirt. I'm so glad Marji issued this challenge because I always wanted to try a ribbon waistband. I plan on wearing this skirt a lot this summer, to work, to the beach club, around town, etc.

You know what would be great? To see some of you sewing bloggers form your own mini-challenges. I'd love to see a maxi dress done on different bodies, for instance.

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Coming next: The BWOF knit dress with the hole in the back. Stay tuned!

A Summer Style Forged in the '70s, Thanks to Jackie O and Ali MacGraw

2009-05-28T19:01:00.000-04:00

Forever imprinted on my young brain as the epitome of summer style:
Jackie O in Capri...

...and Ali MacGraw in "Love Story."

The seventies ushered in the era of the California blue-eyed blondes, and here I was, stuck with brown hair and brown eyes. Geez, even my two younger sisters had blonde hair and blue eyes. Fortunately, there were two dark-haired icons I could look to for inspiration and hope of a glamorous life ahead: Jackie O and Ali MacGraw. To me, their clean summer look of white jeans coupled with a navy or black t-shirt was the personification of American style. I may be all over the page style-wise in spring, fall and winter, but come summer it's Jackie O and Ali MacGraw all the way.

Here are two pieces I picked up in Freeport, Maine, on the way home from visiting my dad in northern Maine. These fit perfectly in the Jackie/Ali style when worn with white jeans:

L.L. Bean's version of the classic French sailor shirt. A bargain at $29.50, this one is soft to the touch and flattering to wear. Vogue and other fashion magazines always list the French sailor shirt as a timeless piece. I picked this one up at L.L. Bean's flagship store in Freeport.

I bought this navy lightweight cotton v-neck sweater on sale at the J. Crew outlet there. It has a perfect fit—clingy but not too much—with just the right amount of ribbing at the sleeves and hem.

My white bootcut jeans are at least six years old and I actually found them at Sears. They're the Apostrophe brand and I love them more than all my expensive pairs of denim put together.

What about you, dear readers? Do you have any summer looks you turn to again and again?

[Want to know how geeky I was back when this school photo was taken in 1971? Looking in the mirror, I used to push my eyebrows into a straight line with my fingers and then tell myself I looked just like Ali MacGraw. I remember my sweet mom would always agree that yes, I was a dead ringer for her.]

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Coming soon: A pencil skirt for me and a bejeweled top for my daughter. On Saturday morning I am giving a sewing lesson to a 16-year-old girl who lives in my town. I'm having her make the scandalous dress and we'll be moving at a fast pace, because with teenagers it's all about instant gratification. I figure she needs to finish this first dress quickly so she can wear it to school and have all her friends gush over her. That will help hook her onto sewing, and then we can go back and work on finessing techniques. Have a great weekend everyone!

Jo-Ann is Listening

2009-05-23T06:00:00.000-04:00

By Leigh-Anne Dennison, Joann.com

This is a quick post to thank Lindsay for the opportunity of guest blogging and take advantage of her offer to post a quick follow up message to let all of you, her readers, know that we ARE listening.

In her e-mail, Lindsay wondered if we were still glad we did it. As I wipe away the tears (just kidding…mostly), I can tell you that we are. Your candor is appreciated even if it stings a bit. We are here to serve your sewing (and crafting) needs, which we can only do if we know what they are and learn where we need to improve.

I am personally reading every comment and will be sharing them with the appropriate team leaders at the corporate offices, who will in-turn share them with their teams and stores.

As I indicated in my own comment, providing the store location will help us to address specific store concerns or pass on praise when you offer it. I loved seeing the comment that someone noticed a team member’s “Cut Above” awards (the scissors pins). This type of recognition comes not just from managers but from peers who wish to acknowledge individuals going “above and beyond.”

While I can’t answer all the questions (and wouldn’t dream of imposing upon Lindsay’s kindness and bandwidth to do so), I’ll throw a few quick answers out here.

The store in the photograph is Saugus, Mass., which opened on Nov. 14, 2008.

We carry “so much fleece” because it is popular, in demand and sells well, which is also the reason for offering craft supplies and tools in our stores.

If you’ve felt you didn’t receive or couldn’t find help because there were too few team members or that they weren’t able to help you, I’d encourage you to speak with someone at their Guest Services desk or the store’s manager. You also can write to Guest Services via the Contact Us page on Joann.com, and select “Store Experience” from the dropdown to help them route it appropriately.

Finally, I have garnered a small reward to thank you for providing valuable feedback. I invite you to use coupon code LINDSAYTFS35 on Joann.com to receive free shipping on any order of $35 or more placed between now and May 30, 2009 (11:59 p.m. Eastern).

Finished: BWOF 10/08 #113B Shirt

2009-05-17T08:30:00.003-04:00

Burda World of Fashion 10/08 #113B

This one goes into the so-so category. I blame the pattern design, the fabric, and operator error.

Let's talk about the pattern design first. Burda says: "A high-class version of the sporty shirt-blouse! The print and the fitted shape lend feminine flair, while the wide raglan sleeves, rolled up and held in place by tabs [which I omitted], add a casual touch." This is the illustration. I don't think either the illustration or description point out how dolman-like the sleeve is at the underarm. I had to trim an inch or so here just to get a closer fit, but you can still see a little fabric baggage at the underarm in the photo.

The fabric, a lightweight stretch denim I got at A.K. Fabrics, is just a tad too heavy for a close-fitting shirt that's comfortable to wear. Plus it's a little stiff. So I wore it once to work and now I'm repeat-washing it in the hopes it eventually softens a little.

Last, I made this shirt too tight. Every bulge shows, especially at the waistline, which is why I am wearing a belt in the photo above. If the fabric didn't have stretch in it I wouldn't be able to wear it at all. I just can't seem to figure out my BWOF sizing. Question: Do you BWOFers always cut the same size or do you vary depending on the pattern design?

Even though I'm not thrilled with the end-result, it was good practice for me to make a shirt. I hadn't done a collar with a stand since college!

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Speaking of pattern sizing, I am going to my first ASG chapter event today since joining a year ago. We'll be cracking the mystery of pattern sizing. Our teacher is an ASG leader from Texas who has the inside skinny on pattern companies' sizing systems. There will be measuring of bodies. If there are numbers I hate seeing even more than those on a scale, it's my measurements....

Oh, Jo-Ann. We Love You, We Hate You

2009-05-15T12:45:00.001-04:00

Thanks, dear readers, for taking the time to fill guest blogger Leigh-Anne Dennison of Jo-Ann's in about our love/hate relationships with her stores. Leigh-Anne left a comment that she will read your words and pass them on to her management.

One thing I tried and failed to get Leigh-Anne to share with me is the percentage of Jo-Ann's sales that is attributable to fashion sewing. I can't even wager a guess as to what it is. At my Jo-Ann's, nearly a quarter of floor space is consumed by fashion fabrics (if you can call polyester that), sewing notions, patterns and cutting tables, all situated close to the front entrance. At the three superstores I've been to (Baltimore, Bangor, ME, and San Antonio) it seems fashion sewing has less prominent space and not as much of it. Without access to sales figures it's hard to speculate about Jo-Ann's marketing and sales strategy for fashion sewing, and whether our comments will have a high, medium or low level of interest for management.

At any rate, I'm glad Leigh-Anne (in photo left) was a guest blogger, even when she knew she'd probably get an earful. From the few e-mail exchanges she and I have had, I believe she is a woman of her word and will indeed share our comments with corporate.

In sum, here's what you said about Jo-Ann’s:

We Like
• 40% off coupons and pattern sales
• the new superstores and renovated stores
• being able to buy sewing notions and patterns there
• Ambiance lining

We Don’t Like
• the lack of quality fashion fabrics, including knits
• all the fleece—who needs it?
• some of the staff, who are either surly or lack knowledge of sewing
• the long lines to cut fabric or check out
• lack of signage promoting sales
• the Overland Park, KS, store is particularly bad

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Coming soon: The one yard dress and a BWOF shirt. I am on a sewing roll right now, making things for my daughter and me while helping two local teenagers learn to sew. I think I'm heading for a sewing meltdown, but it's fun while it's lasting. Have a great weekend everybody!

Guest Blogger: Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores

2009-05-13T08:00:00.000-04:00

Are you one of the lucky ones with a Jo-Ann's "large format" store in your neighborhood? (photo provided by Jo-Ann's)

Note: On March 12 I wrote about my frustration with the tired and disheveled retail establishment that is my local Jo-Ann's. The post caught the eye of Leigh-Anne Dennison, a member of Jo-Ann's marketing staff, and I told her I'd be happy to feature a response from Jo-Ann's here on LindsayTSews.com. While what follows from Leigh-Anne is a little more corporately sanitized than I'd like, I take it as a positive sign of Jo-Ann's willingness to participate in an online dialog with its customers. Feel free to leave comments here for Leigh-Anne and Jo-Ann's.

What’s in store for Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores? Just Ask Jo-Ann

By Leigh-Anne Dennison

The following is a response to Lindsay T’s post, In Which I Rant About the Difficulties of Buying a Pattern at Jo-Ann's, that applauds the best and laments the worst of Jo-Ann store conditions.

An introduction seems in order to start. My name is Leigh-Anne, and I am the content specialist for Joann.com. Among my responsibilities at Joann.com is writing the Jo-Ann Blog. I was thrilled when Lindsay asked Jo-Ann to contribute a guest post to her blog to talk about our stores, warts and all, as they say.

My first draft was an inspired piece about my personal addiction to fabric, fiber and food crafting. A confessional of sorts filled with creativity and puns written by an obsessive member of the DIY community who also just so happens to work for Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores. Of course, while full of wit, it was also a little too full of me – not so much Jo-Ann. So a second draft was penned or typed to be more precise. That version was more cut-and-dry (emphasis on the dry). It focused on disseminating the information about our history and growth, store openings, supporting community demographics, blah blah blah. You get the idea and probably would’ve stopped reading it by now.

Hopefully, this post – like a well-executed watercolor – is a beautiful blending of the humor of the first draft and the necessary details of the second to inform (and possibly entertain) you – Lindsay’s audience – by telling you know what you can expect from Jo-Ann via a quick peak behind the curtain.

As you may have read online or in one of our press releases, Jo-Ann plans to open 19 new stores this year; to-date we’ve opened 8. Some may include a consolidation of small-format stores in adjacent communities into a single, more efficient, bright, shiny and new large-format store. Not only do our large-format stores offer an expanded selection of merchandise, they contain more inspiration, are better organized and include a space for classes and crafting socials; socials being a trend as old as quilting bees and as new, hip and happening as the knitting meet-ups that are popping up across the country.

Another 26 Jo-Ann stores are scheduled to be renovated this year. These remodels improve the shoppers’ mobility and the store’s “shop-ability.” Aisles are wider and less cluttered, lighting is brighter, signage is clearer and the pattern drawers (wait for it) actually open without risk to life or limb. Often more merchandise can fit into the same space through reconfigurations, benefiting the shoppers and store alike.

In addition, throughout the year, Jo-Ann conducts what we call “refreshes” to address minor repairs and cosmetic issues (i.e., stores in need of a facelift but not reconstructive surgery). Basic improvements can include repainting, repairing or replacing outdated systems and revamping of existing shelf structures, etc. Not quite the scale of a remodel nor as exciting as a new store opening, Jo-Ann doesn’t make a big fuss about these improvements – although we do hope you notice them when you pay a visit.

Finally, let me share with you that there are a plethora of Jo-Ann team members for whom sewing, crafting and artistic expression are a key component not just of the hours that make up our work days but the DNA that composes our very (creative) beings. Like many of you, our hearts skip a beat when we see fabulous fabrics or scintillating scrapbook papers. We can wile away hours of our lives browsing stamps, stickers, patterns, paints or polymer clay tools. Our spouses give us a confused look when we justify the need of another six skeins of self-stripping sock yarn or too-cute candy molds.

We enjoy our stores’ merchandise (and LOVE our employee discounts!). We take pride in our work, classes and stores and hope that you have the best possible experience every time you visit. While you may not encounter one of us on every visit or even in every store, please know that we are here and truly believe in our mission – to inspire creativity.

Finished: Vogue 8509 Sleeveless Dress; Plus, Matching Designs at the Seamline

2009-05-08T10:09:00.024-04:00

Vogue 8509

I spent the '80s and '90s wearing skirts and dresses every day to work, so I'm at the point in my life where I'll opt for pants and jeans whenever I can. But nothing beats a breezy dress on a hot summer day, and that's why I made this dress. (Plus I thought the finished version of it in the April/May issue of Vogue Patterns magazine looked great; see scanned photo below.) This dress works for a trip to Stop & Shop or lunch at the beach club, and the pattern's slight fullness around the waist and hips means I don't have to worry about holding in my stomach all the time. "Cause if you're hot and sweaty you don't want to add sucking in your gut to your miseries.

Vogue gets props for a pattern that's simple to make and well designed. No facings here—Vogue tells you to use bias binding around the neck and armhole and then topstitch it in place—and you turn up a narrow hem at the dress bottom and stitch (this dress hits me at mid-knee). A beginner could easily sew this dress, especially if she made it in a solid color and didn't need to worry about matching fabric motifs. The fabric I used is a cotton print with lycra and teeny ribbing.

That's what took most of my time, matching the design at the center front and back seams. The April/May issue of Vogue Patterns magazine has a very helpful article about pattern matching. Following author's Kathryn Brenne's advice, here are the steps I took to ensure a perfectly matched seam:

Matching Design Motifs at the Seamline

Drape the fabric on yourself and determine where you want the design to fall on your body.
Mark the bustpoints on your pattern. Lay your pattern tissue on top of your fabric, placing it where you want your design motifs to fall, then trace the design directly onto the tissue.
Draw your seamlines onto your tissue, then cut out your pattern, making sure the design motifs line up with your tissue markings. As Brenne advises, reverse your pattern pieces for cutting on a single layer so there will be a left side and a right side of your garment.
Fold and press under the seamline of one side of the garment. Pin the folded piece to the other side, matching the design at the future seamline.
Slip-baste in place working from the right side: Catch a stitch in the under layer, then in the fold.
Remove pins and check that everything aligns. Machine stitch the seam and voila! a perfectly matched seam every time.

Here's my center front seam. This was the most time-intensive part of the pattern, making sure the motifs lined up in the seam.

I love the fact Vogue tells you to skip facings with this pattern and just bind the neck and armhole edges. I used black cotton from my stash for contrast binding. I also extended the pleats by 2.5 inches so this wouldn't look like a maternity dress on me.

Coming soon: I made this BWOF 11/08 top out of a lightweight stretch denim so I could have a casual top in my wardrobe that wasn't a knit. Happy Mother's Day to all the moms out there!

"No More Little Girl Dresses," Pleads Sewing Machine

2009-05-06T16:46:00.007-04:00

McCall's 5568

Why is it every time I make a dress for my 4-year-old niece my sewing machine almost dies? This time the needle broke when it hit the invisible zipper foot and somehow jammed the hook race; when I made this dress I had a whole host of machine malfunctions. I should learn my lesson and stop making Lizzie clothes. (Plus cursing like a truck driver is probably bad for my health and it makes the dog howl.)

But not sewing for my niece is hard to do when things turn out as cute as this dress and she loves them so. The cotton fabric comes from my stash and I got the matching ric-rac from Daytona Braids and Trimmings. Wendy’s tutorial on applying ric-rac to collars was very helpful; I had the collar embroidered at a kiosk at the local mall. (This monogram looks slightly askew in the photo but I could have sworn it was perfectly placed when I made it.) Providing your machine does not break down, this is an easy dress to make for a little girl.

Question: Do you think the fabric I used for Lizzie’s dress would be too jeune fille in a tunic for me? The lycra in it gives it a wonderful hand and almost makes it perform like a knit. That’s why I was thinking of a pullover tunic for me, but my daughter says the print’s too juvenile. What do you think, dear readers? Is DD right?

I Hate When That Happens! Off-Grain Fabric

2009-05-01T07:43:00.002-04:00

So there I was, all set to cut out a BWOF blouse with this cotton lycra plissé I had picked up at one of my favorite NYC fabric stores, when I discovered it was printed off-grain. Sob! With a grid design like this, there's no disguising a fabric snafu. Think of how hinky the hem would look, for example. Since I didn't have enough fabric to cut on the bias, my blouse was scrapped and I used this fabric for a dress muslin I made for my daughter. Have you had your own run-ins with off-grain fabric, dear readers? Do tell.

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Follow-up: Thanks so much for all the compliments on my BWOF tunic! It's sort of a style departure for me but I really like it. Now if we can just get the warm weather to stick around here so I can actually wear it sometime.

And many of you weighed in with comments about Zara's shortcut Chanel-style jackets. Though making a jacket has now moved down on my sewing priority list (DD wants some new sundresses and STAT!), when I do make it I will be trying some of Zara's techniques. I'll let you know how it goes.

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Weekend plans: We're crazy busy this weekend with functions on Saturday and Sunday, plus this is DH's and my annual weekend to clean out the garage. (It acts as a repository throughout the year for all the junk we're too lazy to throw out or don't know where to put.) Not much sewing on the docket, but I do think I'll be able to finish up this Vogue dress (the sleeveless version). Have a great weekend everyone!

Down-and-Dirty Chanel Jackets, Zara Style

2009-04-28T18:26:00.000-04:00

Spotted recently at Zara: Lightweight Chanel-style jackets perfect for the warmer months. Zara's unique construction creates a jacket that's less bulky.

Zara, the Spanish fashion chain, opened a store in my town about two years ago and I pop in it every so often for snoop shopping and occasionally to buy something. If you want fashion that mimics high-end designer stuff but at prices you can afford (most jackets there are less than $100, for example), Zara's your place. Zara's clothing construction is exceptional for these price points. And the company often employs interesting construction techniques, as seen on these Chanel-style jackets I found in the store this week. I brought my camera into the dressing room so I could show you the insides of these jackets, which are priced around $89:

Above: The inside of the yellow jacket. The princess-seamed jackets are made out of a lightweight tweed and the linings are a printed organza. The tweed and organza are sewn together like one piece of fabric—not like a jacket with a lining where you can pull the lining away from the jacket fabric. The jacket's edges—neckline, front closure, bottom hem and sleeve hems—are serged together with the organza, omitting the need for facings at the neck and front closure. This photo shows the front serged edge and the hook that keeps the jacket closed.

Above, interior seams are bound with self-fabric or contrast seam binding. The two-piece sleeve seams (pressed open) and the armscye seam are serged, not bound. Using a sheer fabric like organza makes for a very lightweight jacket.

Above, the lined pocket has serged edges. You can see the serged edge of the jacket hem in this photo.

I have some white denim in my stash that I'd like to turn into a princess-seamed jacket with navy trim. But if I try to make another faux-Chanel jacket, with all that entails, it will be November before I'm able to wear it. So I'm really considering taking the quick-and-easy route and making a Chanel-style jacket using Zara's techniques. What do you think, dear readers? A good way to churn out a jacket fast or sloppy construction masquerading as a design element? Let me know!

Finished: BWOF 03/09 Drawstring Tunic

2009-04-26T03:05:00.001-04:00

Burda World of Fashion Drawstring Tunic from the March 2009 issue

This BWOF tunic generated a lot of compliments when I wore it to work on Friday. (The warm weather put everyone in genial moods.) My dear friend and colleague Karen played stylist and photographer as she posed me all over my company's suburban campus. (We usually end up giggling at our photo shoots because there's only so many times you can say "now tilt your head this way" before it starts to feel ridiculous.)

I made this tunic out of a silky poly/rayon in light taupe that I bought at Paron's Annex over a year ago (that's really old in terms of my meager stash). The fabric was great to work with but the pattern was the hardest BWOF pattern I've tackled so far. Thank goodness for Christina's excellent instructions, because it has some funky pattern pieces (the yoke & collar piece, for example) and of course BWOF's wacky directions. I'm happy with the end result but I was so fed up with the overthinking I had to do that I chucked the pattern upon completion. (I like a pattern that's a little more organic in its structure, i.e., it readily makes sense and does not require a mechanical engineering degree to figure it out.)

Details:

The V-neck is really low and you can't really adjust the drawstring much more than I did here without it poofing the bodice too much.
I had trouble with too much ease in the sleeve caps (about 2.5" too much) but others who've made this top did not
I made the drawstring about 10 inches longer and knotted the ends
I topstitched the cuffs, collar and yoke seams
I forgot to photograph the back but it has two long darts to provide some fit

What I'm working on now: I'm finishing up a sundress for my 4-year-old niece, then I need to start on a dress I can wear to a graduation party that's coming up. I found some great cotton prints in the garment district last week, now I just need to find the right pattern.

Death by Spaghetti (Strap)

2009-04-06T11:26:00.007-04:00

image from About.com: Sewing

I have made drawstrings and spaghetti straps many times before but I almost went down for the count with the drawstring for this BWOF blouse. Though I own every kind of tube turner imaginable and I also tried the cord-in-the-fold trick, I could not for the life of me make a decent drawstring for this blouse. Because I didn't have enough fabric to play with and because I was going batty, I gave up and made a drawstring using the press-and-stitch method. It's not quite as elegant but in the end I didn't want the record to say she was admitted because a stupid little drawstring got the better of her.

If I had had a trip to the garment district planned I would have picked up some nice cording at Daytona Braids and Trims and used that. Do you avoid drawstrings and spaghetti straps like me, or do you have a turning method that avoids nervous breakdowns? Please share!

Meet Jo-Ann, My New Blog Buddy

2009-03-23T16:52:00.012-04:00

My recent post about the sorry Jo-Ann's Fabric and Craft Store in my neighborhood ("In Which I Rant About the Difficulties of Buying a Pattern at Jo-Ann's") prompted a flurry of comments. Those of you lucky enough to live within the vicinity of a Jo-Ann's superstore had largely positive comments: "[My Jo-Ann's] is always clean and organized and well stocked," "[The staff] is very nice and even occasionally show interest in what I'm doing when I have my fabric cut." If your local Jo-Ann's more resembles mine, which I so graciously referred to as looking like a crack den, you were vocal about your opinions: "Minimal staff and loads of merchandise on the floor playing with the dust bunnies," "Some days I leave Jo-Ann's swearing I will never shop there again."

After I published that post about Jo-Ann's I kept checking the comments to see if anyone from Jo-Ann's corporate office had written anything. You'd think someone in the marketing department must be typing "Jo-Ann's" into Google blog search on a regular basis, right? I mean, look at all the real-time customer feedback you can glean from bloggers and message boards posters.

Then Dawn let me know she had spotted a new follower of my blog: my new friend Jo-Ann, who sports a little red pincushion as her avatar and has her own blog. Well howdy, Jo-Ann! Feel free to leave comments on my blog, and I've added your blog to the list of blogs I try to keep up with. Better yet, I'd like to invite you to be a guest blogger here—you can write about your store renovation and expansion plans, for example.

Even though following my blog may seem like a small gesture, I applaud Jo-Ann's. I think it's great when the companies who serve home fashion sewists like you and me embrace social media—blogs, twitter, Facebook, Internet forums, email, YouTube, wikis, etc.—to bond with their customers. Burda is an industry leader in working social media to strengthen consumer loyalty. Their site features forums and the opportunity for users to build their own blogs. I seem to recall them contacting bloggers directly who've posted about Burda problems they've encountered.

There are bound to be other examples of sewing-related companies using social media to touch their customers, so bring me up-to-speed about them by leaving a comment. I think Ann of Gorgeous Fabrics is very effective with her use of social media networking to build her customer base. What other companies would you like to see using social media?