Finished: Summer White Jacket with Navy Grosgrain Trim; Plus, Interfacing Sale

Vogue 7975

Just one new jacket for summer this year and this baby is it, a white cotton twill number with navy grosgrain and braid trim. I am enamored of this jacket style and be prepared for me to bore you with versions of this every season. The original inspiration is Chanel, d'accord, but lately I look to Thakoon to see his takes on this collarless style.

Sewing details

I've already made this jacket before, so I just got out my muslin and cut away, knowing the fit would be perfect. The fabric is cotton twill with lycra from A.K. Fabrics, and the stretch poly lining came from NY Elegant Fabrics. The navy petersham ribbon was purchased online from The Sewing Place (you heard that, not everything I buy comes from the garment district) and I bought the navy braid at M&J Trims.

• Cotton twill is not a fancy fabric, and I wanted this jacket to be a softer, more feminine version of a denim jeans jacket. I topstitched the princess seams and the sleeve seams for a casual look.

• Originally I had planned to line this jacket with a fun navy-and-white poly print I found at a rummage sale. I even made the lining first, following my good friend Ann's advice, only to discover it was visible through the twill. Waah. But the stretch poly lining fabric in white was probably the best choice anyway, because it really moves with the stretch twill. Lesson learned: check see-through possibilities first.

• As much as I love jackets, I'm not crazy about them in the warmer months. They're just too jackety, if you know what I mean. So I deliberately made this as unjackety as possible. The front lining comes right to the edge of the jacket without a facing, and I only fusible-interfaced it at the neck, front edges and hem. The result is a jacket that wears more like a blouse.

• I reviewed Claudine's tutorial on shaping petersham ribbon so I could get it to curve properly around the neck. "Wet ribbon, then shape while wet or damp" basically covers what you've got to do. Note: You cannot get regular straight-edged grosgrain ribbon to curve; it's like forcing a square peg into a round hole. You have to use petersham ribbon with the ridged sides if you want it to curve. Plus petersham just looks so much more couture.

• Originally I had planned on placing the braid everywhere the ribbon was on the jacket, but I liked it better in a small dose just on the pockets. Less is more, right? Though I think the pockets are crying out for some more embellishment, I'm just not sure what. Maybe a fancy faux monogram or crest in navy thread?

• I just hate sewing on pockets. These are attached by hand using the method I learned from Marji in the Great Coat Sewalong. You get excellent results with hand sewing but you just have to so unbelievably meticulous to get perfect placement of the pockets. This time three out of four went on just right the first time, the fourth I had to rip out and sew on again.

• Seven big hooks from Pacific Trimmings keep the front edges closed.
  

Here's a closeup of the braided pockets.

The perfect shoes for this jacket: I bought these Tommy Bahama cap-toe, navy-and-white ballet flats from Amazon recently. I love 'em but they're still pinchy-toe new. I would have worn them with this jacket Tuesday but I was in the city and I never walk around Manhattan in uncomfortable shoes. (Learned my lesson the hard way on this one.)

Recognize some of these folks? We had such a good time together in the garment district, and I was so lucky I had a meeting in NYC that day so I could join them for lunch and dinner. The benefits of living close to a sewing mecca! (Summerset has a better photo of me in this jacket on her site.)

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We always need more interfacing, right? My friend Pam has a sale on her fabulous interfacing right now, so do yourself a favor and stock up while the price is right. I've ordered from her before and have been so pleased with the quality and the instructions for use. You will never buy chain-store interfacing again after you've used the good stuff.

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Hooray for the holiday weekend here in the United States! I love the Fourth of July. I put the flag up this morning, I'm wearing my 1960s enamel flag pin as we speak, and I have a strong hankering to make potato salad and deviled eggs. Cue up the John Phillip Sousa and some awesome fireworks and I'm all set.

DH and DS are leaving early Sunday morning for Denver. They'll be there a week on a church mission trip. Hmm, with the two of them out of the house I could possibly get some more sewing time in. I bought three great prints this week (two jerseys and one cotton) and Carolyn told me they count as stash. Ack! I can't be Ms. Anti-Stash and then secretly have one. I have to sew like a demon in case Carolyn ever visits my house and then outs me in her blog with photos of a stash I claim I don't have. (Carolyn and I are friends in real life and we like to keep each other on our toes, right C?)

Don't forget to add yourself as a Google Friend follower (click left) if you want to participate in my month of giveaways that starts next week. Have a great weekend everyone and I'll be back next week!