Spotted recently at Zara: Lightweight Chanel-style jackets perfect for the warmer months. Zara's unique construction creates a jacket that's less bulky.Zara, the Spanish fashion chain, opened a store in my town about two years ago and I pop in it every so often for snoop shopping and occasionally to buy something. If you want fashion that mimics high-end designer stuff but at prices you can afford (most jackets there are less than $100, for example), Zara's your place. Zara's clothing construction is exceptional for these price points. And the company often employs interesting construction techniques, as seen on these Chanel-style jackets I found in the store this week. I brought my camera into the dressing room so I could show you the insides of these jackets, which are priced around $89:
Above: The inside of the yellow jacket. The princess-seamed jackets are made out of a lightweight tweed and the linings are a printed organza. The tweed and organza are sewn together like one piece of fabric—not like a jacket with a lining where you can pull the lining away from the jacket fabric. The jacket's edges—neckline, front closure, bottom hem and sleeve hems—are serged together with the organza, omitting the need for facings at the neck and front closure. This photo shows the front serged edge and the hook that keeps the jacket closed.
Above, interior seams are bound with self-fabric or contrast seam binding. The two-piece sleeve seams (pressed open) and the armscye seam are serged, not bound. Using a sheer fabric like organza makes for a very lightweight jacket.
Above, the lined pocket has serged edges. You can see the serged edge of the jacket hem in this photo.I have some white denim in my stash that I'd like to turn into a princess-seamed jacket with navy trim. But if I try to make another faux-Chanel jacket, with all that entails, it will be November before I'm able to wear it. So I'm really considering taking the quick-and-easy route and making a Chanel-style jacket using Zara's techniques. What do you think, dear readers? A good way to churn out a jacket fast or sloppy construction masquerading as a design element? Let me know!
42 comments:
I say go for it. No one will mistake a Zara jacket for a bona fide Chanel, but there is a place in our wardrobes for both types of jackets. And I love some of their construction details. Kathleen over at Fashion-Incubator has written a bunch about Zara. They are a great example of lean manufacturing.
Like I say, go for it!
They look like fun jackets. Why not make one? They're cute
I don't see this as sloppy construction. I see it as an homage to Chanel without being a knock-off. Personally, I would feel more comfortable wearing Zara than a real Chanel.
Sure--go for it! There's nothing wrong with taking a style and making it in a different way. Make something gorgeous and love it!
Go for it! I know you can and will finesse it a tad, ie, those serged edges, but all in all this is a great look to wear with jeans.
What does it matter what construction techniques you use? As long as you end up with a jacket that fits, is sewn well and that you love to wear! So I say go for it! Hey, I perked up at the descriptions too!
I LOVE zara. They make so many incredibly wonderful pieces, and their fabrics are always much nicer than H&M or other similar stores
So I can't say exactly why, but I've always been anti-exposed serging unless it's flatlock construction on athletic gear. I'd do something like cover the serged edge with a ribbon or whatever, just so you wouldn't see that stitching. ;-)
After you know the couture way of doing things, then you can divert to the world of pret-a-porter. And they have just as valid techniques to learn too. As I'm "in the biz" I have to constantly think about end result vs. time, not having the luxury to spend all the time in the world on the finished product. Sometimes, having learned the couture techniques, I much prefer the shortcut methods as often they give me the same look with far less time!
Can't wait to see it once you're finished.
I say "give it a go". They are pretty cute jackets. We don't have Zara here.
I'd just go for it. Not every item has to be perfect. Sometimes you just want something.
Thanks for sharing all the pics and dirt. I like the idea of the organza! Very interesting. Isn't shopping a different experience as a sewer? I am constantly looking at the "insides." Even the other day at Target, I was looking at the construction of a wrap jersey knit dress. They used grosgrain lining as facing. Something different.
Love the yellow jacket! I hope you make one. I will tune in for the details!
Of course, I meant grosgrain ribbon not grosgrain lining!
I chuckle at envisioning you in the fitting room taking pictures surreptitiously. I say give it a try. And if all does not go well,make sure it is a fabric/style your daughter may like so she can be the back up recipient of the Zara knock off! Been there!
Before actually reading, I thought you had made these jackets and I thought "how cute and so clever! I'm going to steal this quick construction idea..." Then of course I read the text and felt a bit...duh.
But I totally agree, there's a place for both the tailored original and a clever everyday knock-off. Go for it. ...I know I will....;o)
My favorite coats and jackets are from Zara, and it's probably a good thing they don't have a store in my city - I'd be broke (and I probably wouldn't bother sewing anymore).
I'm going to be the devil's advocate here and ask: Why do you want to make something you can go and buy ready-made? If it fits you! Why not use your limited sewing time on making something that you can't afford buying ready-made or is of a superior quality. I live in Europe where Zara shops are everywhere so that may be why I'm not that impressed with their clothes. If I had the abilities to make a proper Chanel style jacket I would never settle for making a garment using these techniques unless I literally didn't have anything to wear. Just my 2 cents worth of course.
Thanks for the inside look; maybe I ought to go have another look at Zara's stuff. I second Marianne on Zara; the times I was in there I wasn't too impressed with their quality (while having 100 % silk pieces from H&M!), but maybe that has changed. Also, I might steal some ideas for my very-faux Chanel, which isn't going to have all the couture details (but hopefully some). I'd say go for it!
I agree with Marianne. Why make something that looks like cheap RTW if you have the skills to make something much more interesting with higher quality fabric?
And maybe it's the photo, but the jackets look kind of cheap.
Well, that is a difficult question!
If you have already one, well constructed Chanel jacket, and just want another one, more relaxed, more fun one, then go for it. Maybe you should check that it won't cost you more than the Zara one, though.
If you have a fabric you love, and want a jacket to wear for a very long time, take the time to sew it properly.
On the other hand, Coco Chanel wanted to free the women, and her sewing has been considered as sloopy at some time. Using Zara techniques can also give you more creativity possibilities. Two good reasons to go for it.
In short, it depends on what you have in mind.
PS I would never have thought of taking pictures in the dressing room :-)
I don't know that denim will take to the Zara edge treatment the same as the looser weaves you've shown. But it doesn't have to be Zara or Chanel or nothing. You could line your jacket the conventional way without still sewing on it through November.
I agree, we don't always want or need the 'Chanel' jacket and shortcuts to a wearable, summer jacket are a great idea. Especially since summer is so short, it's nice to actually get it done by summer!
Zara is what it is. I think they design nice things, but the workmanship is not satisfactory. I bought a silk blouse on my last visit in New York and frankly it is falling apart. I am going to cut a pattern off because the styling is elegant. I hate those serged edges on the pocket - definitely low cost construction in a poor economic climate.
To respond to those who said why make a Zara knock-off when you can just buy it: My denim fabric cost $10, the pattern I already own, the trim will probably be $15-$20, all the other supplies I already own. So it's still considerably cheaper to make my own, which I hope will look better than these Zara jackets, even if I do borrow some of their speed construction techniques. --Lindsay T
I like the use of organza as a lining. I did this recently with a Sewing Workshop Mimosa top and really liked having a finished interior on a loosely woven fabric. I did mine as a "traditional" lining vs. flat as on the Zara jackets.
I think it's fine to explore some of the quick techniques as well as traditional ones. Not everything in your closet needs to be high end couture, you know? I say go for it! Adapt the aspects you like and experiment.
Very interesting! The trims on the neck and front opening hide the serging but is it visible at the outside of the hem? I think serging would actually be a nice treatment for boucle.
As to why one would make when one could buy--the more I sew, the more I am conscious of it as hard work that might be performed in a factory under bad conditions. I like knowing that I was well-fed (if not well-paid) for my work performed under safe and sanitary conditions.
Do it! those are super cute jackets (still waiting for a Zara in Boston...), and I hardly ever have time to do "real couture" sewing anyway. Personally, I'm not one of those sewing snobs -- it's just not in me right now to do long-term, crazy involved projects. I mean, by the end of my wedding dress, which is the closest I'll ever get to true couture, I was ready to tear my hair out! Fretting over every detail is just not enjoyable for me -- I have to do that at work all day long as it is.
I would suggest a modified version, omitting the parts that you don't like, but utilizing the time savers you do like. For instance, I wouldn't like a serged only hem or pocket so I would finish those differently. Some of the other techniques would still speed things up and not be as obvious. One concern- sometimes you fall in love with your "one season" item and wish it lasted better by season's end.
The thing I find endlessly interesting is the continuous reinvention of Chanel's classic jacket. My gosh, the woman was born 125 years aog and we still wear her designs. And since you (like me) like that look, hey why not? Being able to run one off in an afternoon is fun. Finding something like dyed-to-match yellow organza might be a challenge even in NYC, but you can always dye it yourself.
Lindsay.-
Sorry do not agree with what you say in this post and I will say it: First, I live in Spain, and I know perfectly everything involved in this enterprise. I know you have good intentions and who are surprised with that price, but talk about this brand in these terms mean to agree to a mafia and unscrupulous. The only sewing techniques that have Zara are having the most modern machinery and unashamedly copied everything that passes in front of their eyes. If you pay 100 dollars for a jacket, you should know that the real value is not more than 10 dollars. As this is achieved ?...: workers in underdeveloped countries, sewing sweatshops and miserable salaries, tax evasion, subsidiaries, etc.. etc. etc. and I think I'll stay short. What is the goal: to become rich again. Think you might not be such a good idea to look at Zara's clothes, and best not buy, of course.
Best wishes, Paco
To Paco's comment, I confess I have no knowledge about Zara's manufacturing processes. In fact, I know very little about Zara, other than it's welcome as a consumer to have another option for lower-priced, trendy European clothing besides H&M.
I'm not a fan of look alikes that are hastily made either. I have to chuckle when I see "serged" edges esposed. My aunt worked in a local sweat shop sewing Carter's kids clothes for 40 years. She bought the industrial serger when she retired. That was thirty years ago when nobody outside of the garment industry had ever heard of a serger. They called them by their manufacturing name "merrow". They were used to sew and finish inside seams only. I still feel that is where they belong. besides, Threads did a good article on Chanel jackets that cut corners but didn't sacrifice some of the basic qualities. Go that route.
Zara has manufacturing sites in my home country and I'd say this: the women who work there won't be able to buy an Ipod but can put food on the table and send their kids to school so that the younger generation can hopefully achieve better employment. With that, I'd leave politics aside. I love Zara and wish they had a store in Colorado. As far as the jacket, go for it, consider it a difusion line:) After all Armani has Armani Prive and Armani Exchange!
I am really glad you posted this as I have always wanted to have a try at a chanel jacket but living in a hot climate puts me off heavy jackets. I am always on the look out for lightweight versions. I think it is a great design modification for us warmer weather gals.
Another Zara snoop shopper! I'd recognize that harsh dressing room lighting anywhere!
I like Zara styles. Both jackets could easily fit into my wardrobe. Following Zara's technique is a great way to beef up your "Chanel" style wardrobe. I love custom sewing techniques, but sometimes you want to make a beautiful garment without all the fuss.
That is such a cute jacket. I say go for it. A light weight jacket will be great for summer.
My only issue with Zara is the fact that they pay miserable to their employees, mainly at their sewing plants. I've heard some weard stories about the working conditions at their manufacturing plants.
I can't say that I haven't bought clothes/shoes/bags at Zara; but I do it only if I have to. It's a great place for snoop shopping though
Thanks for sharing the "inside secrets".
Hanging there on the hanger I'm not impressed with those jackets. I know from experience though that some items just don't have hanger appeal. So hey, if you like the general idea of that type of softer construction I say try it!
I Like the jackets but I also think that using the inspiration of cutting corners and thinking outside the square in your own inimitable style would be good fun . Maybe you could start a sewing contest like the great Coat Sew Along?? I know that you are sitting there say " Why dont you do it Mem"? . My retort is that I still havent learnt all I need to ,to cope with the business of running a blog . My 15 year old foster daughter has promised to show me very soon . I love following yours, however and learn so much from all of you out there in Blog Land. I will watch what you decide with keen interest.
Love your under cover work!
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