Finished: Simplicity Double-Breasted Jacket in Satin

Here I go again, churning out another jacket to wear with jeans at work. It's hard to tell from this photo that this one is made out of pale gray satin because it looks so matte here. Should have used the flash, I guess.

As I was making this pattern, Simplicity 2868, I had a sinking feeling that it was going to be another wadder. At various stages I thought the fit was awkward, the sleeves were weird, the neckline was too high, etc. Typically with all these problems I'd stop midstream and cut my losses, but some strange force compelled me to see this one through.

And I'm glad I did because I really like it. The fabric is a stretch satin, and it was a pleasure to work with (plus it's machine washable). I wore this jacket to work yesterday and was amazed at how comfortable it is to wear. Seriously, I want lycra in all my fabrics from now on.

Here are the technical details:

• Simplicity 2868, satin fabric from my stash, contrast binding striped cotton from Ebad Fabrics in NYC, and silver shiny disk buttons from a button store not far from my house that I won't name because you'll hate me for all the money you'd spend there. (I curse Nancy K [who has a new blog, BTW] for introducing me to this shop because you can't get out of there for less than $50 a visit.)

• I made the shorter-length jacket and cut the sleeves at 3/4 length largely because I didn't have enough fabric for longer sleeves.

• I omitted the center back seam because there was no need for it. (The pattern calls for one so you can add a cute little button tab at the waist, but I hate sitting all day with a button pressing into my back.)

• Satin like this one does not need to be lined, so I did an abbreviated Hong Kong finish on all the seams. I like how this looks but I think adding a lining is faster. If you make this pattern think about incorporating a lining, which you'll have to do on your own since it's an unlined jacket.

• My design touch was adding two more rows of buttons to the front. I think creating a stronger vertical line like this is more slimming, too.

• I got out my Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing and read up on collars. I used their tip on getting a perfect collar point: Double-thread a needle, knot the end, and insert needle through the wrong side at the point, between the seam; pull the needle and thread through to the other side to turn the collar. This worked so much better than my usual poking and jabbing.

• This pattern went together very quickly and can be made up super-fast, depending on how you're finishing the seams. I can see making it again in a warmer fabric for the fall.
  

Seriously, how do magazines get good flat shots? I placed the jacket on a white sheet, which I later erased in Photoshop, and then I fussed and fussed with the wrinkles that kept cropping up no matter how I posed it. Plus the dog kept walking on top of it.

A detail shot of the pseudo-Hong King finish on the seams. My jacket is very snazzy on the inside but this adds a lot of time to a garment. Not for speed sewists.

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Coming soon: I need to do a wrap-up to my post where I ranted about Jo-Ann Fabrics; plus I'll be previewing a wonderful new book on how to look great, Steal This Style by Sherrie Mathieson. Enjoy your weekend!