Hi! I'm no longer blogging here, but you're welcome to take a look around. A catalog of most of my sewing projects, plus new projects sewn since 11/2011, can be found at lindsaytsews.tumblr.com. Thanks for stopping by. —Lindsay T

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Details: The Faux Chanel Jacket


Oui, c'est moi in my faux Chanel jacket today at my office. I wore the jacket the entire day and it was very comfortable, not at all jacket-y feeling or heavy. In fact, I'm pretty pleased with it and think I'll make a cream-colored faux Chanel jacket for next fall. After all, a girl can never have too many Chanels, right?

The Lining: With this jacket the lining comes right to the edges. Technically I should have incorporated front and back neck facings but I didn't have enough bouclé. Worried about the "integrity" of my jacket, I conferred with Marji, who has turned out some lovely Chanel jackets. "When Coco Chanel first started making her jackets everyone said 'oh, no, you can't line a jacket that way,' but her techniques then became a standard," explained Marji. So go right ahead and line your jacket all the way to the edges with the silk charmeuse, she advised, since I had already stabilized the jacket with the Armani underlining technique. I felt oddly empowered after my talk with Marji, like I had gotten the Pope's blessing to pass my sewing mistakes off as designer's intent.

The Trim: I made a faux sleeve vent with the trim. The trim is composed of cream chenille braid and black fringy braid, both from M&J Trimmings, that I stitched together first by machine then hand-sewed to the jacket. That took me a long time, because I had to first stitch the black fringe all the way around, then the cream braid all the way around again. But should I ever tire of this trim removing it will be much easier than if I had machine-stitched it. (I'm having second thoughts about the chenille braid—I mean, isn't chenille a little declassé for a Chanel, even faux? But then I remind myself that some Chanel RTW Fall '08 jackets featured zipper teeth as trim, so maybe chenille is really bourgeois chic and I should just go with it.) The metal and enamel buttons are also from M&J Trims.

The Chain: Here's the chain that serves to weight the hem and is a traditional feature in Chanel jackets. It's hard to tell from this photo but the chain is actually black so it blends into the jacket (chain purchased at Tojo Shoji, a jewelry supply store just down the block from M&J). I attached it to the lining using a double strand of waxed thread.

My complete review of this jacket is here on PatternReview.

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What I'm working on next: Hmm, I wish I knew! Like you, I am loving so many of the patterns in BWOF 02/09. My subscription was worth it for this issue alone. So I'm wondering…do I want to make another jacket, this time for spring, or do I want to make an easy top or dress? Whatever I decide, minimal hand sewing will be involved. Have a great weekend!

42 comments:

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

It looks wonderful on you! Perfect fit. You did a fantastic job.
I found my bouclé fabric, from Gorgeous Fabrics. Now looking over all my jacket patterns :) trying to decide which one to make.

phyllis said...

L-O-V-E the trim! Love everything about it actually.

Birgitte said...

Superb! You look fantastic- congratulations!

Lori said...

This is an amazing jacket. You did an incredible job.

Cindy said...

You look excellent! I love the chenille--it makes the jacket pop.
Nice job and thanks for all the advice!

I am loving the 2/09 Burda too! I haven't been diligent about using my issues, but I am truly going to try with this issue! Maybe a Burda-a-thon in March!

Little Hunting Creek said...

I love thr jacket and especially the trim. It looks great on you. I can understand why the next project is "no hands" :)

Claire said...

I love the trim - as Karl Lagerfeld sez: "Eet eez dee hand-mehd treem zat makes zee jakeet look tres chic and very Chanel!!!!" ;-)

BWOF - 2/9 - I love the idea of the 108 top - with the ribbon/knit look - It would be interesting to do the ribbon sewn onto the knit to make a non-knit or non-stretch fabric work for a stretch pattern!

Vicki W said...

It looks great and that trim is wonderful!

cidell said...

When I saw your photo, the Fergie song 'Glamorous' popped into my head. You look so chic yet casual. Effortless really. Beautiful job.

spottedroo said...

What a great jacket! It looks wonderful on you.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Perfect! Absolutely perfect! And I love the "Chanel" ballet flats that you wore with it!

Lindsay T said...

Note to Carolyn's comment: The ballet flats I'm wearing in the photo are as faux Chanel as the jacket.

Joanne said...

The jacket is beautiful, It looks great! The fit is perfect on you. I LOVE it with jeans and of course your shoes finish the outfit! The trim is even more wonderful close up. Thank you for an excellent step by step view into the making of your couture jacket. Be proud!

Lisa Laree said...

I had to click through from Bloglines to say that jacket is absolutely smashing!!! *applauds*

Nancy K said...

Gorgeous! The fit is wonderful and I love the lining to the edge. Very soft and pretty. I love the look of a great jacket and jeans.

Erica B. said...

Your jacket is just gorgeous!

AllisonC said...

i absolutely love it. And for what it;'s worth I think the trim is fabulous.

Elaray said...

Coco Chanel herself would be pleased with your jacket. Actually, she probably wouldn't, but I think it's fantastic.

Shannon said...

Another beauty! You look fabulous!

Gorgeous Fabrics said...

I think the trim is fabulous - not declassé at all! Chanel trims are frequently chenille. I bought some Linton tweed to make myself a Chanel style jacket, so at some point I'm going to start on that for spring.

Cindy Ann said...

Perfection! You put so much work into this jacket and it shows in the fine details.

wendy said...

Oooh! Beautiful :-)
I like the white trim, it looks really crisp and nice, so I'd vote to keep it.

Daisy said...

You have made another gorgeous Chanel piece. The fact that you wear it so well only adds to this superb jacket. Well done!

Summerset said...

Gorgeous! I love the curvy shape it has at the waist. I think the trim is fine, and yes it will be easier to remove if you have second thoughts in the future.

Omega said...

Gorgeous jacket, it looks great on you! I love the detail.

Marji said...

It's gorgeous darling! Seriously. Keep the chenille trim. Not declasse at all.
But really! I'm going to be struck down by lightening now. Isn't it a bit sacrilegious to liken our conversation to getting a blessing from the Pope?

Claire said...

Thanks for visiting my blog - I love my debs & brides - having no kids, I get these girls for about a year, then let them go and get another group. Did you ever know Herbert H's place Promenade Fabrics in New Orleans? Don't know if it's still there, but the deb dress (with the banded organza skirt, that had to be hemmed at the waist so that the lowest band would be even with the floor and even with the skirt - that's in one of my galleries here:http://www.clairekennedydesign.com/image-viewer.htm?gallery/Fgallery1-6.jpg), was from Promenade. I love his stuff, but there's so much more in NYC.

Love your trips to NYC, makes me really miss it, and wish I was only a day away. Love being there - never get bored of it. Here's a little travel log of my last trip to NYC - it has been too long - have to make time for another one.
http://clairekennedydesign.typepad.com/the_atelier_of_claire_ken/new_york_city/

Tiffany said...

thank you for introducing me to your blog! what a beautiful jacket! I think I'm going to spend the rest of my morning perusing your site.

HeathersSphere said...

Such a gorgeous jacket! Beautifully constructed!

Cennetta said...

Lindsay, Your jacket is adsolutely beautiful. Fantastic job and great tutorials along the way. A chanel jacket is on my to make list.
Thanks,
Cennetta

-E said...

You've inspired me... I'm hitting the library this weekend to get some Chanel working wardrobe ideas :) I love the last couple jackets you've done.

About the lining chain - 1) how did you attach it, and 2) do you worry about snagging delicate fabrics on it?

Faye Lewis said...

That jacket looks wonderful on you.

Kat said...

Really, really beautiful jacket!

Elizabeth said...

Cidell said that your photo reminded her of a Fergie song well it made me think of Rod Stewart "you wear it well" and you do!

Linda said...

Wow, your jacket is lovely. Truly a great job and the trim and butons are just perfect.

Melissa said...

Impeccable!!!!

Bunny said...

Wonderful jacket! You wear this so well and the fit is very flattering.

Vicki said...

Fabulous!!!! Love the braid and the buttons - great match. And following on from your next post - you have the figure of a 31 year old and you look great!!!

Christina said...

*sigh* Lindsay you are the current queen of Chanel jackets. And the B&W combo is something you can wear forever!

Tany said...

The details only confirm my first thoughts on this jacket: SUPERB!

MaryPat R said...

It is really gorgeous. I love the fabric, the trim, the fit, the styling- everything!

Iggy said...

I know I'm completely late on this one but I LOVE your jacket. I've been thinking of attempting this type of jacket and yours will hang on my inspiration wall!