I first attempted this BWOF 09/08 jacket last fall, making it out of a dark gray single knit. It didn't work for a number of reasons, but I felt the pattern was a good one and wanted to try again. I picked up some tan double knit at Metro Textile, figuring I could pair it with the already cut-to-size black sportswear zipper I had and make it work by adding some black accents in the neckband, waistband and cuffs. Here it is:
How I feel about it: I have pattern photo let-down! I wanted it to look Michael Kors-y, sportswear chic like it does in the photo above. My version is just okay, nothing I'd reach for first thing in my closet. It definitely needs the zippered pockets, which I may add if I feel like making the effort. I'll wear it layered over a white turtleneck when and if I get around to wearing it. Bleh...
The technical stuff: The pattern is easy to make and the fit is good. I recommend making this up in a double knit or a more stable knit if you want a look like the BWOF photo. Also, do not pay attention to BWOF's length measurements for the neckband or the cuffs. In the photo above you can see how much gaping at the neck I have (neckband length too long) and how tight the cuffs are (cuff length too short). I reapplied the neckband in black double knit and stretched it tight all the way around, and I made the cuffs fit loosely like an extension of the sleeve.************************************
It's time to make another Chanel jacket, dear readers! This black wool boucle, silk charmeuse and chenille trim has been sitting in my stash for nearly two years (since I only resumed sewing about two years ago that's an eternity) and I've decided I'm ready to incorporate the techniques I learned with my coat on a smaller scale. First, though, I'm seeking some opinions about block fusing. I don't think I'll have the time or opportunity to have this professionally fused in the garment district, so I'll have to do it myself. Do you fuse your fabric first, or do you cut your pieces out and then fuse? I have heard and read both schools of thought, so I'd like to see what you all recommend. Thanks!
25 comments:
Oh poo, I hate when a garment turns out that way. You did a great job salvaging it, but I know exactly what you mean. I have sent more of those types of garments to Goodwill. It's one of those combination things, I suspect. You know - the combination of fabric/interfacing/pattern. If it doesn't work exactly right the result, while not terrible, is disappointing to my mind's eye.
Okay, so on to the next! For the fusing, I like to cut out pieces of fabric and interfacing that approximate the pattern pieces, with about 2 inches extra on all sides so you can do the quilting if you want. Fuse each piece, then lay the pattern piece on top of it and cut - again, with at least an inch SA.
I'm so glad you're feeling better!
To Block Fuse, or not--that is the question! For me, it depends on the stability of the fabric. If the fabric is densely woven and stable, I don't block fuse. But, if the weave is loose, or it's a knit with a lot of stretch, then block fusing prevents a major problem.
Good luck with your Chanel!
Gwen
Too bad the jacket did not turn the way you expected it to. I agree with Ann, it probably is a comfination of factors. I stiull think it I a very werable casual garment you can use once you get over the frustration.
About the fusing: If your fabric has looser texture, blockfuse. i've sewon once with a chanel-like fabric and kicked myself a lot for not having blockfused!
Yep. Been there too. From the outside looking in, I think its a winner. Better luck with your Chanel jacket.
Sorry it didn't work out, but glad you're feeling better.
If I am underlining I block fuse the whole piece. If I am not underlining but fusing interfacing, I decide which pieces I want to interface and lay them out to see how big a piece I need and interface it whole, then I cut out my pieces. Pieces I use different interfacing for, or only partially I interface individually.
But, if you are making a 'real' Chanel do you want to underline it at all
Sorry about the jacket, it does look nice looking at the picture. I do understand the feeling of project let-down.
Good luck on the Chanel #2, the fabric is beautiful.
I like your jacket, and think you made a great save! I can't contribute to the block fusing convo, but I do have that pattern in the stash... maybe I'll do a sew along with you!
I have made two Chanel style jackets using loose weave fabric and have cut out my pieces first, then fused using an ironing press.
The jacket I made only had silk organza interfacing on the front facing/shawl collar. According to the Threads article, Chanel doesn't use interfacing (if I remember correctly). That's why the lining is quilted on, giving some stability without compromising the softness of the boucle. I did fuse the buttonhole areas though.
In regular lined jackets I usually fuse after the fabric is cut. I fuse the entire front as well as facings and hem facings.
Too bad about the jacket, but if it makes you feel any better it happens to all of us.
I like your jacket. Glad you are feeling better.
I cut then fuse, but I have to wait until all the stars are aligned before I fuse! Ugh, it's such a chore. I've got a jacket that I just cut out and was ready to sew, until I read that instructions call for all pieces to be interfaced. Now it's gonna have to sit in limbo-land for awhile!
I did purchase a garment press just for this purpose, but it's so small - it helps but is not that much faster than using my iron.
Glad to hear you're up and about again!
I always love the look of zippered pockets... and then I scrape my dry knuckles on the teeth and promise myself never again.
Sorry your project did not turn out as expected.
I am currently making that Vogue jacket to go with recently completed Vogue skirt. I normally cut out my fabric pieces then fuse. I have also done it the other way but the former way is the one I learned so that habit is the one I go with most often.
My jacket is going to be simple so focus will stay on skirt. I do love the look of your fabric and trim and this is good pattern for a Chanel type jacket!
The black definitely adds to the jacket. Agreed, the zipper pockets would take it up a notch. However, not a fave? Move on to that Chanel jacket :) .
For a boucle, I would block fuse the entire piece of interfacing to the fabric. Oh...it takes forever to do and I hate that, but with all the extra stitching, I think block fusing from the get-go is easier than doing it piece by piece on this project.
How do you plan on cutting out? Are you going to cut all the pieces about a 1/2" larger all around to cut out, then remeasure after doing the quilting lines? I've never done a Chanel-style jacket, but in my mind that's seems like the thing to do. Or am I missing something?
I'll be watching your progress closely with this. I'm looking forward to following this exciting project!
Sorry you are not happy with the jacket. The black additions are a really good save, gave it some life.
Generally I don't block fuse. I do not like the additional bulk that it can add to seams and corners. My exception is a fabric that would ravel a lot and needed to be held together by the fused interfacing in the seam allowances. Boucle would fit that description.
I am a long time lurker on your blog but I am coming out of lurkdom to comment on fusing. :-) I have taken Susan Khalje's jacket class and the quilting is enough stability. My jacket is luxurious with the quilted charmeuse lining and I couldn't imagine fusing. I am getting ready to produce another one this spring and fusing never crossed my mind.
Oh Lindsey - you've gotten an assortment of comments...and here I am adding yet another.
Block fusing is one of those things that if you've done it more than once you tend to develop a system that works for you so that the task is not so onerous.
Now I know that some cut out their pattern pieces and then fuse but I always experience a bit of shrinkage with that method and always in a place I don't need shrinkage. So since I'm lazy, I cut huge blocks of fabric and fuse the interfacing to them, then try to get as many pattern pieces cut from it as possible.
I have no insured that my pattern pieces are cut the proper size and I use up as much of the fused fabric as possible to avoid waste. It will be interesting to see which way you go with this.
That's too bad about the jacket. I really like the version with the black trim. Give it a few months, if you don't grab it, wear it and love it, send it on to a new home. The Chanel jacket, without a doubt, will be a much better substitute.
I thought Chanel jackets weren't fused? But when I do fuse, I cut a sorta kinda size piece, fuse to that then cut out the pattern piece. When I do the fusible separately from the fabric they always turn out slightly different sizes(or maybe that's just ME)\
I'm glad you're feeling better!
I am researching a Chanel jacket right now,but don't anticipate starting until the late summer,I have more work to do until I feel anywhere near confident. For what it is worth,I hope to skip the interfacing and quilt the lining directly,this seems to be a recurrent theme in what I am reading. Your coat is absolutely beautiful,I cant wait to watch your new jacket unfold!
Considering how pleased you were with the work done by the professionals and the reasonable price, why not just mail in the fabric and have them do it?
Anonymous,
Trust me, if the fusers took mail-in fabric I'd do it in a heartbeat. You have to drop it off and pick it up and they will not ship it to you. Believe me, I've asked.
I like the look of the new jacket. It does look more clasic than the BWOF one though.
I don't think I can add to what others have said about fusing.
I think the knit jacket would look great with a black turtleneck under it. White would be more blah.
I fuse first only if the fabric ravels. If I am worried that it will fall apart while cutting, I fuse first. I don't have a press. But I do have a big pressing table with a padded surface. That really helps when laying out big pieces- either time you do it.
I've been wanting to make a "Chanel jacket" myself, but have not been willing to dedicate the time to it yet. Maybe this spring. As for the fusing, I usually cut the pieces, then fuse. This way, I can make sure the grain is perfectly straight on each piece before fusing, and it wastes less interfacing. I like Annes idea though, I think that would work just as well and perhaps be less time consuming.
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