Hi! I'm no longer blogging here, but you're welcome to take a look around. A catalog of most of my sewing projects, plus new projects sewn since 11/2011, can be found at lindsaytsews.tumblr.com. Thanks for stopping by. —Lindsay T

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

My Very First BWOF!, Part 2: From Blouse to Cropped Jacket

In yesterday's post I talked about how I wanted to make some design changes to the BWOF blouse I was making. This pattern morphed from a blouse with elastic waist insets to a cropped jacket perfect for layering over long-sleeved tees and turtlenecks.

Here are three views of my daughter modeling the final result. I think it looks Michael Korsy—what do you think? I plan on wearing it over black or cream-colored turtlenecks with slim pants or a pencil skirt. [Note: The proportions of this jacket work better on me because I am about 2.5" taller than my daughter, though she's a lot slimmer. But she's an impatient photographer, which is another reason I don't often show myself wearing the things I make. I know, I know, get out my tripod….]



Fabric: Some mystery stuff I got in Paron's Annex. It was labeled "100% cotton" but it has lycra in it and looks and acts more like a lightweight wool. Please don't tell me it's gabardine! (You know, 1970s polyester leisure suit connotations and all.)

Changes I made:

  • Removed about five inches from the bodice length so it hits me at high hip

  • Left the sleeves as is in terms of length, but did not form a cuff as the pattern indicates

  • Finished the sleeve edges with a self-binding that complements the neck binding

  • Added flaps with buttons to the front, drafting them myself and relying on my 1980 Vogue Sewing book for directions on sewing them to the jacket

  • Added four buttons to the front placket rather than three. (These tortoiseshell dome buttons are from Botani Buttons in the garment district and I love them! They were more expensive than the fabric but I think they really make this jacket.)
Things I will do when I sew this again:
  • Finish my seams in some way other than serging them, like a Hong Kong finish

  • Add some interest to the back, like a pleat at the center-back neck

  • Make this in denim or twill and jazz it up with topstitching
Here are the jumbo #10-size covered snaps I need to add to the plackets. I am getting so much better at making covered snaps, though I still think they're a pain.

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Thoughts on sewing BWOF for the first time:
  • Okay, it's not so hard after all. I don't know why I waited so long to try a BWOF.

  • Tracing was easy and accurate with my Clover double tracing wheel I bought at Greenberg & Hammer. You can adjust the widths of the wheels from 0.4" to 1.2". I also used a big sheet of red carbon paper I got at the FIT Bookstore. It smells like a big box of brand-new crayons.

  • The directions for this particular pattern were easy to follow, but the type is awfully small and can be a real strain to see, especially for people like me who sew at night when their eyes are more tired. I'll enlarge the directions first on a copier the next time I sew BWOF.

  • Speaking of directions, this pattern's guidelines completely omitted adding interfacing to the plackets, which I did add. Experienced BWOFers please let me know: Is applying interfacing something BWOF expects you to intuit? I always appreciate a reminder as my sewing time is usually between 8:30 p.m. and 10 p.m., when I'm generally not the sharpest tool in the shed.

  • I appreciate that BWOF patterns have a cross-generational appeal. My 15-year-old daughter and I looked over the 9/08 issue together (purchased at Paron's in the city, BTW) and found many designs that appealed to us both. That typically wouldn't happen with us looking at an issue of Vogue Patterns magazine.

  • Am I now going to become another BWOF choir member, like Cidell and Elaray and Dawn? Well, the verdict is still out on that. My wardrobe needs are for tops and jackets mainly, with the occasional dress or skirt. It seems I find something I like in about every third or fourth issue. But when I do find an issue that has three or more patterns I want to make, then it's like I've hit the jackpot, which is how I feel with the 9/08 issue. Stay tuned for future posts on me and BWOF….
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Parting shot: My dog Ralph, an English cocker spaniel who likes to participate in photo shoots whenever possible.

22 comments:

Kristine said...

Yay!! Great Job!!! I love it! As for the interfacing, I almost missed it on my first one too, they have a very discreet way of showing on the layout diagram by shading the pieces that need to be interfaced. Looking forward to the next project!

Bunny said...

I love it! Great jacket! and just right as the weather cools to throw over a long sleeve T or a turtleneck.

Dawn said...

You'll be hooked! I betcha!

Elaray said...

Excellent! Not only did you make your first BWOF, but you made it your own! It may not be love at first sight, but I predict, it will be love!

Birgitte said...

You did such a great job on this, it's most def "Korsy". As for BWOF, the more you use them the more you'll reach for them when you need something. I go through my stash by simply looking at the line drawings. And you've already proved you can change things, so endless possibilities ahead for you :-))

colour by number said...

It looks great and so functional! I am getting a wee bit closer to trying it! can't wait to see the next one!

cidell said...

It's pure awesomeness. Way to be trendy but age appropriate.

Yeah, BWOF sometimes guides you on the interfacing, but I find that I add or remove when I deem neccessary. A lot.

loopylulu said...

Your first BWOF looks great. I agree with you that tracing isn't so bad, it's just time consuming. I think you definitely hit the goal for this project on the head.

Vicki said...

Great, well done! Very stylish.

Claudine said...

Lovely jacket. About the interfacing, you said it's a blouse pattern, right? Personally, I never put interfacing in the placket of a blouse. Maybe Burda doesn't, either.

Lori said...

Great job on the jacket, your changes are fantastic.

Cindy said...

Love the changes you made! This will look fabu with a turtleneck.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Welcome to the dark side! I haven't really paid attention to whether BWOF tells you when to interface or not. And you're right about the tiny font. Cryptic directions in small type can lead to some frustration. But the results are totally worth it.

Summerset said...

Excellent job. You will find that there are quite a few things BWOF expects you to know or doesn't mention. One particular example is staystitching curves that will be clipped and other places. Add me to the choir - alto part, please - I love BWOF, too.

Connie M. said...

Love the jacket. Can't wait to see it on you. And those buttons - gorgeous ...... very similar to some vintage buttons I have in my button box (handed down and added to from yard sales). Unfortunately I don't have enough to do a whole jacket front. I keep waiting to find a project worthy of them. As my Dad used to say whenever he had a button fall off, "here's a button, could you sew a shirt on it for me?"
P.S. I went on a search for the double tracing wheel (I use a lot of Ottobre patterns as well as BWOF) and the *same* item ranged from $3.50 up to $14 in price. Pays to shop around.

Gwen said...

Wow! Very, very nice! I haven't tried a BWOF yet, so it's been quite interesting to read about your first experience... :)

Charity said...

LOVE it, Lindsay! A very nice interpretation of the Kors look for Fall. Wasn't his collection fabulous?!

Charity

BeeBee said...

I've been following your Burda progress with my own VERY FIRST BURDA EVER, lol. You're much faster and a jacket! Very nice, I LOVE the pleats at the neck line and you did such a nice, clean job of them. Anyway, if you're interested, I updated my Blog (finally) on some progress (finally). I may be in love. (with Burda and Thai food)

Melissa said...

Great job on your jacket! BWOF is fantastic - I bet you'll be coming back for more. I adore how the fit is pretty consistent and is more fitted than American patterns.

Cennetta said...

Great job! I absolutely love it!

Tany said...

FABULOUS! Well done!

Christina said...

Welcome to the world of BWOF! I love how you changed this blouse into a jacket. Michael Kors would approve of this on the runway.