The ASG Conference: My Takeaway

The ASG conference offered workstations like these where attendees could try new things, like making panties.

Stop sewing like a home sewer/sewist.

That's the key message I took away from two days of classes at the annual American Sewing Guild conference in Chicago. The home sewing industry has trained people to sew in a fussy, antiquated way that is vastly different from the efficient sewing done on the factory floor. Granted, most of us aren't sewing on speedy industrial machines and we assemble an entire garment at a time rather than sew one piece over and over again on the factory line. But, my teachers urged, if we adopt a factory style of sewing we will produce garments faster and will be more relaxed at the sewing machine.

Some factory sewing tips

• No pins! Use weights while cutting patterns, and learn to hold the fabric correctly while you let your machine's feed dogs do the easing work.
• No more 5/8" seam allowances. Use 3/8" SAs, or 1/4" if you're comfortable with that. If you're concerned about fit use 1" SAs in the vertical seams.
• If you're worried about perfect seams, sew your matchpoints first and then come back and sew the entire seam
• Sew with a longer stitch length, 3.0 or greater. Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns uses a 3.5 stitch length.
• Pellon interfacing is the worst stuff you can use. I had a couple of instructors go on and on about how awful it is. One told a story about meeting the CEO of a major men's pants manufacturer; this particular brand has a lower price point. She asked him what interfacing he used and was surprised when he said Pellon. Turns out Pellon was a strategic choice for this company because, according to the executive, it only lasts for 60 washings and then their customers have to buy new pants.
• Two of my instructors advocated using fusible interfacing as an underlining to provide more body to fabrics, and more as the rule rather than an exception. Both of them sell interfacing, so I wonder how much of this theory is gospel or a way for them to sell more product.
• Edgestitch instead of taking the time to staystitch followed by topstitching.
• We need to stop torturing ourselves trying to achieve perfection when no one is ever going to notice the teeny imperfections we think are so glaringly obvious.
  

I hadn't taken classes with a live instructor since high school, so attending this conference was just what I needed. Thursday I took an all-day workshop called "Industrial Shortcuts" with Rosebud (yes, that really is her name). Rosebud is an informative, patient and relaxed instructor and my classmates and I all felt her class was well worth the trip.

Rosebud demonstrates the way to hold your hands when you're guiding fabric through your machine.

On Friday I took three classes: "The Perfect Sizing Worksheet" with Christine Jonson of Christine Jonson Patterns, "A Dozen Favorite Construction Techniques" with Peggy Sagers, and "Choosing Interfacing" with industry guru Connie Crawford. Christine Jonson's class involved way too much math for most attendees, which was unfortunate because Lori and I (yes, we met up and had such a great time together! I'll post a photo of us tomorrow) met Christine the night before in the exhibit hall and really liked her. I absolutely loved Peggy's class and if she is ever anywhere close to my area to teach a class, I'm there. She was funny, straightforward and empowering with her message that there's no need for perfection (Peggy: "I've never produced anything that's perfect, including my kids"), so "get over it" because sewing can be "way fun." And Connie is incredibly knowledgeable. I only wish I could have stayed longer to take her class "Sew Like a Pro."

Peggy Sagers (left) with a student. This photo doesn't do her justice: She's a very attractive woman who exudes that Dallas sense of style.

I had to take a photo of the back of Peggy's jacket, which the whole class oohed and ahhed over. She made the jacket and then an embroidery expert (I'm sorry I've forgotten her name) did the embellishing.

The exhibit hall was disappointing, Lori and I both agreed. The fabric prices were expensive and many of the booths featured crafty stuff aimed at the convert-a-sweatshirt-into-a-jacket crowd. I did pick up two patterns from Peggy's 2008 line and a Christine Jonson top pattern, plus some twin stretch needles that I desperately needed.

Bottom line: I'm glad I went to this conference. I learned a lot in just two days and I feel like I'm ready to take my sewing to the next level. Next year's conference will be in Albuquerque, New Mexico, one of my favorite places in the United States. It's a bit far for me so I doubt I'll make it, but if you like the idea of taking classes taught by industry experts, I highly recommend you go.